-
-
Re: Bleeding Brake Lines
I just filled my rebuilt master cylinder and used the "pump the pedal method"you plan on using with no problems. This was on a -66 standard brake car. Good luck, -
Re: Bleeding Brake Lines
Try back bleeding the master by filling the reservoir and then hand pump the pedal using short strokes.You will see the air bubbles being purged from the master.Stop every few strokes to let the air come to the top so that you don't push it down the line, then pump again.This is the same idea as bench bleeding,which is your other alternative.Once the bubbles have stopped appearing in the master you are ready to do the rest of the system if needed.Comment
-
Re: Bleeding Brake Lines
New m/cyls must be bench bleed to fill the bore or you will never get the system bleed. If the reservoir is empty there might still be fluid in the bore, but to be sure you might want to disconnect the line(s) and bench bleed it on the car. Once you get a solid stream of fluid coming out of the m/cyl, you're ready to go. The fluid will come out with considerable velocity, so position a large container to catch the escaping fluid. Be sure to use tubing wrenches on the hydraulic line B-nuts and flush a quart of fluid through the system.
DukeComment
-
Re: Bleeding Brake Lines
there are master cly bleeding kits at you auto parts. you disconnect the brake lines and install these fittings with short hoses that return the fluid to the reservoir, pump till the fluid has no bubbles and then reconnect the brake lines and then bleed the whole system starting with the wheel cly farthest from the master cly. i prefer using the vacuum pump way to bleed the whole system.you can do the bleeding without help, just keep checking the master cly to make sure you do not pump it dry.Comment
-
Re: Bleeding Brake Lines
I have been very successful with the tired-and-true pump and bleed method as outlined in your service manual. The only thing I will add to the already good advice that you have received is to insure that, after you refill your reservoir and before you start pumping, you put your MC lid back on. I can tell you from my more inexperienced days that the brake pedal action can and will cause bubbles to come up. Shortly after painting my 66 my son and I were bleeding the brakes and we got the distinct pleasure of quickly wiping off the spattered brake fluid from our newly painted wiper grills.
There are other techniques of course. Some advocate the gravity method, but I don't have the patience. Others like the one man vacuum method but my son's labor is cheap and he likes to do this.Comment
-
Re: Bleeding Brake Lines
Hi Mark:
In addition to all this excellent advice you might want to find the reason the brake master is totally empty, you obviously have a system leak of serious proportion as you said you "discovered it was empty" and made no mention of having replaced any parts.
jerryComment
-
Finding the Problem is the Problem
Believe me, I will continue trying to figure out where the fluid went, but there are no puddles in the garage and no visible signs of leakage along the brake lines. I've only had the car a couple of years, it's passed two inspections without a hitch and I never checked it before the pedal went funny.Comment
-
Re: Finding the Problem is the Problem
Mark,
Please look for fluid inside the firewall area where the brake pedal comes through the firewall. I think that you will find signs of fluid that will require a master cylinder rebuild. The carpet will have a tendancy to soak up access fluid so look carefully. PaulIt's a good life!
Comment
Comment