I have a 78 pace car with the original lacquer paint still on it,, not bad shape if i say so myself, however the original owner i think just took an old beach towel and used it to keep it clean in between washings, so,, you can image the scratches in it,, my question is,, how is the best way to bring it back to good shape without spending major bucks to have it redone?,, thanks doug
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Re: Lacquer Paint
As long as there is some film thickness left and no cracking or crazing, dead surface lacquer and/or microscratches can be rubbed out with fine polishing compound, and it will look near new, but lacquer that old will probably have at least some minor crazing that won't rub out. In any event it should end up as a good "ten-footer" and the paint will still be OE. That describes my Cosworth Vega's OE black acrylic lacquer.
I've used Meguire's Fine Cut Cleaner with good results. It's designed for machine polishing, but is very gentle when used by hand. Try a small area down low by hand and see how it works.
If you trust yourself you could machine polish it. If not, just do the whole car by hand. It's a good workout. Be careful around the decals.
Finish up with a top coat of carnuba wax.
Duke -
lac paint
I would first wash it and clay bar it with dish soap. Anything on the surface no matter how fine will only do more damage when you buff the car. Every time you pass over the car you do damage so you want to do the minimum on each step.
Then maybe use a precleaner to get anywax off but usually I find that the dish soap and clay are enough to get all of the old waxes off.
When you have done that you will have removed any fillers or makeup left from previous waxes or whatever has been used on the car. That way you can see what is really there. Some products seem to give great results but if they were tested with alchohal the great results would wipe right off.
You cant say what to do really without seeing it and then testing a few combinations.
If you use a non diminishing micro fine abrasive it will remove the minimum amount of material and give you a high gloss with one compound only. Stay away from some of the more aggresive diminishing compounds as they cut fast but you are putting deep scratches in then chasing them out as the compound breaks down.You want to do the minimum amount of errosion. Better to have something that does not cut as dep but works slower.
I usually work backwards starting with the softest foam pad to see what it does, then go to harder foam, and if necessary go to wool. Wool will cut more than the foam, if you can get the scratches out with a foam pad then I would just use that.
You can produce alot of heat even with foam so if you have a digital gauge check to make sure you are not getting the stuff too hot. I have done tests on RM Lacquer before and it is easy to burn if you run the polish too dry. But it all relates to speed type of pads, pressure, type of polish, how fast you are moving, etc etc
If you can check your car in the sunlight, if you work in the garage under flourescents and think it is fine it probably won't be out in the sun. Or at night if you can put it under a mercury vapour light at the grocery store like the sunlight in the day that will show you the swirls that are there. The black background with one light source will show you what is there swirl wise.
The right pad and polish combo and steps will leave little or no swirls. With others you may use a Random Machine which helps to erase the swirls left. We did a car last week and it was swirl free with only a rotary machine but even the type of wool which was synthetic was matched to the polish.
I don't know about the paint and whether there is clear over the black or silver. If there is clear then maybe watersanding enters into it. It would be done first but if it is just a silver single stage metallic than you want to stay away from that. The car we just did had three coats of clear over the metallic so we watersanded with 1500 then hand watersanded with 2000 before the polish steps. We could have also used Trizac or Abralon at 3 and 4000 grit but the polish used worked well at 2000. The 2000 paper we used is Nikken which is the best water sanding paper out there. It costs more, last longer and has a more consistent grit size so again fewer deeper scratches.
If there is a very good detailer in the area you might be able to hire him for some time to put you on track and then do the rest yourself. You can do alot of damage without experience and even some with experience. A good experienced detailer may be able to make a major difference in what is there. What area are you in?
I don't use Meguires (no offence Duke) the Corvette on display in Windsor a few years back would have put Barry into an early grave. I asked if it was polished with some of the 20 odd Meguire products all lined up nicely on the bench just to be sure and it was.
I prefer to support some smaller independant detailers. Several of them have their own polishes custom made for them, I have seen mirrors made from one polish only in more than one case.
The last two detailers i worked with put on a sealer first. One used a Carnuba after that where the two were made to work together. Each offer different protection and type of gloss. Sealer adheres better. The last guy i worked with preferred to use only a very high quality sealer from the boating industry.
The paint on many of the cars I have seen can be dramatically improved plus when put on track it will make it last a lot longer.
WarrenComment
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Re: Lacquer Paint
Depending how bad (number and size) the scratches are, you may be able to cover them up as opposed to removing them. In either case, get some good towels for future use.
My favorite product of choice is Zaino. http://www.zainostore.com
All the details are on the website on how to use the product and where to start.
The president & owner is a former body and paint man for 30 years. He actually answers the phone on the tech line (732-833-8800).
Try using the Z-5 product first. If after two applications you find that it's not covering enough of the scratches, go to the ZPC product. ZPC is actually an abrasive. You can apply by hand or with a buffer. Follow-up with the Z-5 to seal the paint.
The products that you would need: ZPC, ZFX, Z-5, Z-6, applicator. Anything else is extra. Total cost is approximately $62.30 + shipping.Comment
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Re: lac paint
Warren:
You've dazzeled me with your knowledge of paint. Good write-up. Could I get you to come over and shine on my '65?Comment
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massaging lacquer paint
Hi Mike,
I just tried to think what made sense and how to approach something that I didnt see in front of me. Give me the car and a bit of time and the story may have been a bit different but in general that is how I would approach it. If you are anywhere near Toronto or north of it I would be happy to look at your car.
I cut the response short and it had been a long day. Getting the best from paint is not accomplished from reaching for a bottle of this or that, most paint I have seen can be better.
I suggested a detailer as a good one can get the best out of what is there. You see these cars at Pebble Beach and Barret and some have been revived by people who taught me their craft.
WarrenComment
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