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I haven't reach the body drop sequence of my 68 project yet Mac, but I can assume the following will come into play.
If your setting "donor" components together, I must believe that it's going to be trial and error, setting the body completely (but lightly) on the frame and closely inspecting where it's touching the cushions and where it's not, so you can figure the correct amount of shims for each location.
Keep in mind too that when the bolts are pulled up tight, slight fit issues may develop with the body possibly flexing a tad.
Doors should be hung in place to ensure proper fit and window to gasket mating
My donor frame had very prominent hash and zero marks on the verticle portions of the frame rails but it really doesn't mean much as the (also donor) body wasn't matched up like on the assembly line.
I'm sure that others who have done this a zillion times will chime in with the do's and don'ts.
I too will be interested in what they have to say.
At the factory, the body was considered "straight" and the frame was checked on a jig for shims. Therefore, if you have shim marks on the frame AND the frame hasn't been hit etc. then you should be able to install the shims per the hash marks and be at the location the assy line used. This also assumes that the body hasn't suffered any accidents as it is also a donor.....
I have mounted a few 73 convertibles back on the frame. If I could tell how many shimes were in each location I used the same amount as I took out. If unknown I start with two shims at mounts two and three and adjust the rear for a good rear door fit. I add shims at mount one to make it have the same pressure as two and three.
Lyle
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