C3: Ready for a ride

[Rob M.]

Yesterday I've got the needed approval from the RDW to drive our imported C3 BB Daytona Yellow/Black convertible on the road!

I only had to replace the headlights (for European correct lights), the amber park lights for clear versions and I had to remove the side lights (in the rear red light holders).

As a result of the ride to the RDW and during the approval process the following questions arised:

1) Should a light on the dash burn when the brakes are applied (this is Dutch ruling when a car is newer than 1966, is not mandatory if the break cylinder is transparant). There is an electric wire on one of the brake blocks but I wasn't sure what it purpose is...

2) Where can I get a terminal for the water temperature lead (connection onto the temp. sensor). My lead doesn't have the needed terminal anymore. Could someone post a picture of the terminal so I can get an idea how it should look like?

3) My oil pressure guage isn't working. Is the oil pressure working in a similar way as a C1 (oil via tube to the guage) or is it electrical?

greetings,
Rob.

[Robert E.]

Re: C3: Ready for a ride

Rob, You can try Lectric Ltd for the temp connector at

http://www.lectriclimited.com

Robert
41801

[Ken A.]

Re: C3: Ready for a ride

The brake light on the dash is only for the emergancy brake.

The oil pressure gauge is mechanical, so yes, there should be a tube from the back of the block to the gauge.

Congratultions on getting your 69 on the road.

Ken

[Rob M.]

Re: C3: Ready for a ride

Hi Ken,

Ok, so wha is the electrical brown wire for existing the small brake block (with the brake tubes attached to it)? Is this for lighting the rear lights (to signal you are braking)?

greetings,
Rob.

[John H.]

Re: C3: Ready for a ride

The "brake" light in the dash will also illuminate in the event of a partial brake system hydraulic failure (pressure differential between the front and rear brake systems). It should NOT illuminate when you step on the brake pedal, although it might if you haven't fully bled the brakes and one end still has air in it.

[John H.]

Re: C3: Ready for a ride

Rob -

That's the brake system differential pressure warning switch wire that plugs on the pin terminal on the brake block adjacent to the master cylinder. The switch that turns on the brake lights when you step on the brakes is up inside the brake pedal support, actuated directly by the arm portion of the brake pedal, very similar to your C1.

[Rob M.]

Re: C3: Ready for a ride

Thanks John, that must have been the thing the inspectors were looking for. I wasn't able to answer that question...

greetings,
Rob.

[Robert S.]

Re: C3: Ready for a ride

Rob,

Looking good! Makes me miss my '72 LT1

Enjoy the ride.
Bob

[Dick W.]

Re: C3: Ready for a ride

Rob, most of the time you can remove the oil pressue guage, lubricate the indicator pivot points, manually (very carefully) move the indicator a time or two to work the lube in. Reinstall the guage and good luck.

[Klaus Friedrich #33362]

Re: C3: Ready for a ride

Hi Rob,

I'm driving a 69 BB convertible (L36) here in southern Germany.

Please contact me, if you like. I've done so many work on it - I think I can help you (Pictures etc.).

My homepage (not completed) www.vetteran.com
My eMail address: klaus.friedrich@vetteran.com

I live near Switzerland and it is a long way to the Netherlands but I hope we'll meet one day.

Save the wave

Klaus
NCRS #33362

[Klaus Friedrich #33362]

Re: C3: Ready for a ride

Hi Rob,

first hint:

Be careful with the European headlights!
Driving at low beam is OK - nothing will happen.
But if you change to highbeam all four lamps will work - but not for a long period.

Changing the lights, the power of each lamp has 10W more. 4x 10W = 40W
By this there are approx. 5 Amperes more flowing through your elecrical system.
While the headlights have no special fuse, only the bimetal in the switch, the light begins to flicker after and then it switches completely off.

And when I say "completely" I mean it! It happened to me some years ago. And believe me it is no fun driving or standing on a crowded road by night with no lamp (even parking light) on.

You can expand the wiring harness or what I'm doing now, is to change to highbeam only for short time. You will get used to it ...

Greetings

Klaus

[Rob M.]

Re: C3: Ready for a ride

Hi Klaus,

Isn't this happening when the sealed beams are in the car and would you then not encounter the same problem.

I recon I change the lights back to the sealed beams to ovoid the problem since the car has passed the RDW test the day before yesterday. The next road test in scheduled in 2 years...

greetings,
Rob.

[Mark Milner]

Re: C3: Ready for a ride

Most of the European lights I ever used (quartz-iodine or quartz-halogen) were rated 55/55 (low/high), 55/65, or some rare 55/75 and 55/100. So you will be using too much current for the small wires in the harness.

You should also never use the higher powered bulbs in lower power light shells, as the extra heat of a 55/100 in an original 55/55 can burn the mirrored surface and lose any efficiency you had. (Ask how I know.:))

A trick is to install a headlight relay. Not original, but it keeps you from burning up your wiring harness and thus your car. This can be placed near the headlights where most will never see it and run an extra heavier wire with a fuse to run the lights.