original motor or driver

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  • Kent B.
    Infrequent User
    • July 1, 1986
    • 0

    #1

    original motor or driver

    I have a question, I hope you will give me your opinion on. I have a 65 BB that I am thinking of putting back together. my question is should I put the original motor back in, or put a replacement BB in for driving around. Very little use per year, maybe 400-500 miles per year at best. Not too many nice days up here, and summers are short. My thought is to save the BB from any harm, in case some day I or someone else wants to completely restore it?. Also any preference on a clutch setup? I would appreciate any or all of your thoughts. Thank you. Kent
  • Kevin M.
    Expired
    • November 1, 2000
    • 1271

    #2
    Re: original motor or driver

    If you want a driver put a small block in it and save the BB. If you want the BB put your engine back in, unless your racing it you should not be able to hurt it.

    Kevin

    Comment

    • Roy B.
      Expired
      • February 1, 1975
      • 7044

      #3
      Re: original motor or driver

      Put the original engine in , enjoy what you have and let the next owner worry !

      Comment

      • Kent B.
        Infrequent User
        • July 1, 1986
        • 0

        #4
        Re: original motor or driver

        Thanks guys for taking the time to comment.

        Comment

        • Mark #28455

          #5
          is it NCRS restored?

          If you're planning to show it, then put the original engine back in. If you're not planning to show it, put in a replacement engine and keep the original safe. If you somehow hurt the original, it will cost BIG $$$ to replace it.

          I know the others may disagree, but 5 years ago I pulled the original engine out of my 1970 BB driver and just last year I had a carb float go bad and the engine filled up with 1/3 tank of gas. I wasn't aware and tried to start it...you know the rest of the story - just like the old fuelies - bent rod, cracked piston.

          Will it happen to you? Probably not in 50 years, but is it really worth the risk?

          Mark

          Comment

          • Terry F.
            Expired
            • October 1, 1992
            • 2061

            #6
            Re: original motor or driver

            Put the original engine back in. My vote. Build it right. If you bore the cylinders make them try to bore it with the absolute minumum before going to the next size over. Keep as much meat on the walls as possible. Make sure they don't deck it. That happens from time to time. Use good oil and have fun. Don't abuse it or something will break eventually. Abusing a car like that is like putting a match to money. I don't know about you but I don't have any money that I can burn. Have fun, Terry

            Comment

            • Mark Milner

              #7
              Re: original motor or driver

              maybe 400-500 miles per year at best.

              How do you do that? I know you are in Alaska, but you are bound to have at least a few weeks with the weather decent. I find it so easy to put 20 miles on and only just go out to pick up coffee. I can kick on 100 in a week and not have gone anywhere.

              I once checked my gas log on my bike and saw I only put about 500 miles on it for that year. I came immediately to the conclusion that I needed a new girlfriend as this one was keeping me from riding.

              If you are driving those 400 miles in a month or two and are storing it the rest of the time, I'd put in a replacement block. The wear from sitting will tear it up and the risk of firing up a stored engine and breaking a ring or something is much greater than one driven frequently.

              I wouldn't put in a small block. A big block will drop right in and can be made to look original. Only a few numbers will be wrong, and 99.99% of the people have no idea what those are.

              Comment

              • Mark #28455

                #8
                Re: original motor or driver

                A 1980's 454 block only costs $200 for a core - cheap insurance (I would even run it as a 454 or buy a $200 cast steel stroker crank)! The 049 or 781 heads go for $75 to $100 a pair and will make better power too.
                Mark

                Comment

                • Philip C.
                  Extremely Frequent Poster
                  • December 1, 1984
                  • 1118

                  #9
                  Re: original motor DRIVER

                  Hi Kent I would (and have) put the orig BB back in, I built mine with a nice hydraulic roller cam and rockers.(roller rockers lower oil temp by 15)A five speed richman (goes right in with a little work on rear trans mount)with a 308 rear you get 456 in the first 4 gears and then 308 in fifth the best of both. I used the 396, L-88 clutch in all my cars on what ever flywheel the car came with, you cant hurt the motor unless you want to.That motor can go out to 454 easy, its beefie and strong. Good luck Phil 8063

                  Comment

                  • Kent B.
                    Infrequent User
                    • July 1, 1986
                    • 0

                    #10
                    Re: original motor DRIVER

                    Thanks to everyone who responded. It looks like about a 50/50 split, and both sides have good and valid points. There is a lot of good information, and knowledge at this sight. I am proud to be a member. Thank you again.

                    Comment

                    • Mark Milner

                      #11
                      Re: original motor DRIVER

                      You can hurt the motor idling in your driveway. If a spring breaks and drops a valve, you have damage. If the head of the valve breaks, you can break a cylinder wall faster than you can say "Oh shucks!"

                      Or whatever you say.

                      An acquaintence did that to his 396 coupe going down the Florida Turnpike on his way home from Cypress one year.

                      Half the fun is having it in original configuration for the feel, sound, and power. In such case, numbers don't matter as much as specs.

                      After changing cams, rockers, etc., you are no longer in original configuration so why not put any engine in it? The block may be original, but the engine isn't.

                      Comment

                      • Mark Milner

                        #12
                        Re: original motor DRIVER

                        Here is the item most haven't thought of, and many prefer not to.

                        Would you set $30,000 in cash in a cardboard box on your back porch and leave it there? Probably nothing will ever happen to it, but if it does, you are suddenly out that much money. There is no turning back the clock.

                        Comment

                        • Warren F.
                          Expired
                          • December 1, 1987
                          • 1516

                          #13
                          Re: original motor or driver

                          Mark;

                          Can't say it better than that!

                          Comment

                          • Mark Milner

                            #14
                            Cheap Insurance

                            Last spring I went on a trip to check out a few big blocks for a guy. With one car, we took it out for a drive after a full inspection. Just a short run down the highway next to the guy's place and back.

                            On the way back, two street racers came flying past us, one in the left lane, the other on the right gravel shoulder.

                            We were lucky because the guy in the gravel lost it, got sideways, and managed to pull it back, however, not until he showered us with rocks.

                            In the matter of a few seconds, the car went from being excellent to having about a dozen rock chips in the hood and fenders and a broken original windshield.

                            In those same few seconds, we could have had a totalled car.

                            We could have dropped a valve.

                            We could have spun a rod bearing.

                            We could have done all sorts of things.

                            Dropping in an NOM is cheap insurance, expecially when you think that many of these big block cars can literally drop $20,000 - $50,000 if the original block gets lost.

                            Comment

                            • Mark #28455

                              #15
                              I wasted my 454 camaro engine

                              About 14 years ago, I wasted my 454 Camaro engine at 3000 RPM (4.11 rear at 60 MPH) on the Washington, D.C. beltway in rush hour traffic with my wife and daughters in the car with only 240 miles on a newly rebuilt engine! A valve spring failed - "they do that every now and then" I was told by the rep from the manufacturer. By the way, all performance parts (GM included) are sold "as is with no warranty". The "GOOD" news? I was able to salvage the intake and one head, and the block if I want to sleeve it!
                              Mark

                              Comment

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