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Being the amateur, I could use some help with a problem. It just started since I had my clock converted back to the mechanical movement. I have a new wiring harnesses. In Oct '05 I removed my clock to send away because previous failed workmanship.The clock worked fine with a quartz movement,and I had no problems. I received my clock back last week and I thought this PM I would intall it to make sure it worked ok. I plugged it in, hooked up the 2 lights and it ran fine. I tested the courtesy lights and the lights in the clock worked. I did some other things in the garage and came back a few minutes later and the car courtesy lights were out and the clock stopped. I checked the fuse and it was blown. I put in a new 15 amp fuse and as soon as I put it in it blew. I disconnected the battery and put in another fuse and as soon as I connected the battery out it went. Questions: Does it matter which sockets the bulbs are in?? Question: The plug can only go one way, right? I thought about disconnecting the clock plug and see if it blows fuses, or unplugging the light bulbs. I need more fuses before running more tests . Any help is appreciated.
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Re: HELP ! My clock is blowing fuses
Don,
Be sure your clips holding the clock secure are not touching one of the leads connected to the clock. That will do it every time. -
Re: HELP ! My clock is blowing fuses
Glen, do you mean that the clips are not touching the wires for the light bulbs or do you mean the wire for the plug or both ? Thanks....DonComment
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Re: HELP ! My clock is blowing fuses
I have done this. Check the clips that hold the clock in place. They can rotate and come in contact with the power lead which shorts the 12v to ground.
Unplug the back of the clock and try it. If it doesn't blow the fuse when it is unplugged then I would suspect one of the clips is the culprit.
BLComment
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Re: HELP ! My clock is blowing fuses
The power leadsComment
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Re: HELP ! My clock is blowing fuses
Don,
Sounds like you have a short in the clock mechanism, in the electro-magnet which winds the clock, or in the case. If it worked once, it could mean that the electro magnet wound it up for about 90 seconds to two minutes then shorted out on the next rewinding. The points in the clock make a contact and rewind about every two minutes or so.
The clock lights get their ground from the case, if they are unplugged from the case or if the clock is unplugged they won't light.
I'd try disconnecting the clock, try a new fuse, and see if everything else works except the clock and clock lights, then plug in the clock and see if the fuse blows. This will isolate the problem to the clock, if all else works and the clock blows the fuse.
If the problem is not in some other location, then pull the clock and look for a short with a VOM meter. You can also test the clock with a battery charger, positive to the isolated terminal, negative to the case or grounded terminal.
With 12v to the terminals, you should see or hear clock being wound as the points on magnet make contact; it should wind about every 2 minutes or so. If this happens, and the clock ticks, then the problem is in the harness.
If it doesn't wind and tick, and you received the clock from the restorer this way, send it back.
If you received only the mechanism and installed the mechanism, remove the mechanism from the case and look for frozen contact points, or a short in the wires to the electro-magnet with the clock frame. You can physically wind the clock by rotating the point away from the contact, to see if it will tick for about 2 minutes before the points come back to contact.
If you find a problem with the mechanism, then you have the option of sending it back to the restorer, or trying to fix it yourself.
I just recently installed the my original (restored) mechanical mechanism in my 67, and spent a lot of time trying to troubleshoot it before I sent it to the restorer. On return, I did not have the same problems you describe. I assume that this is your 66 clock.
Hope this helps,
Jerry Fuccillo
#42179Jerry Fuccillo
1967 327/300 Convertible since 1968Comment
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Check the clips first.
That is a very good possibility. If you connected the clock first and it worked. And then you set the mounting clips which hold the the clock in place, and they were rotated against the positive lead, then the fuse was blown at that point, and the clock would continue to run for a minute or two.
Jerry FuccilloJerry Fuccillo
1967 327/300 Convertible since 1968Comment
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Re: Check the clips first.
Thanks to everyone. As you said Gerald, I set the clock and plugged it in and tested it. Everything worked at that time, all the lights, and the ticking. I then installed the clips. I may have a clip and wire touching. I only hope it is that simple. I will check that out after I get some more fuses. I blew all that I had. I also will unplug the clock and put fuses in. I know everything worked ok without the clock in because I drove it that way for a few weeks. Again thanks to allComment
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Re: HELP ! My clock is blowing fuses
Gerald, Glen, Bryan......Thanks for the imput. I still need to get some fuses, but I checked the wiring this AM. I found the one lead wire looped up around and laying against the metal part of the radio speaker. Would that have the same effect as if the wire was against one of the clips? Appreciate all of your help.Comment
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Re: HELP ! My clock is blowing fuses
An isulated wire laying on metal won't do anything. You have to check that wire to see if it has been crimped by a metal part, where the metal cuts through the insulation into the wire, or if there is a knicked or bare spot on the wire.Comment
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Change Fuse Size for a Test
Just as a test, increase the fuse one size and see if it blows. A dead short will take out a 15 or 20 amp fuse as fast as a 10 amp.
However, if it runs for more than 3 minutes, then it means your clock is pulling more than it should and blowing the fuse.
DO NOT LEAVE THE CAR. Watch the wiring, smell around it, and feel the harness during this test. If it begins to get warm, pull the battery cable off and disconnect the clock.
DO NOT RUN THE CAR WITH THE LARGER FUSE. This is only to decide if you have a dead short or if the clock is drawing too much current.
If it is drawing too much current, then send the clock back.Comment
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Re: HELP ! My clock is blowing fuses
To all that have been trying to help an amateur find the problem.
I have done and found the following: I tried Mikes test by putting in a 20 amp fuse. When I connected the battery it blew the fuse. Next I dis-connected the clock plug letting the 2 lights plugged in. I put in a 15 amp fuse and the courtesy lights remained lite but when I put on the dash lights the lights in the clock did not come on.
I checked all the wiring and there are no crimps, nicks, bends etc. I thought what the Heck! I am taking the clock back out to see if I can see anything. What I found is the entire back of the clock is not attached to the front. The restorer I guess did not crimp the back to the front. I supposed this may be the problem and maybe causing shorts or what ever happens with the electric.
Would this problem cause the problems I am having??
I have a call into the restorer, we will see what happens. He probably want it back and I will have shipping and insurance for the 3rd time. I guess this is what goes with restoration.Comment
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Re: HELP ! My clock is blowing fuses
Yep, that would cause it. The short is probably at the positive terminal where it comes through the back of the case. There is a little insulator at the terminal under the L shaped terminal piece which isolates the terminal from the case. Any movement of the rear of the case in relation to the clock mechanism could cause a short at the terminal. Even forcing the connector on and bending this terminal against the case, will cause a short.
Before you send it back, try securing the back of the case to the clock housing and properly crimp it with needlenose pliers. (You can usually see where it was crimped before) Check to see that the terminal insulator is in place and the terminal is not bend against the case. Check the alignment of the terminals to the connector.
Then bench test it with a battery charger. If it works, put some of that dielectric grease on the terminals, and put it back on the car. Do not use excessive force in connecting the terminal.
If it then works on the car with no fuses blow, call your restorer and chew him out for sloppy workmanship. You might ask for your money back, at least give him a GFY. You might post the restorer's name, so others are aware.
Jerry Fuccillo
#42179Jerry Fuccillo
1967 327/300 Convertible since 1968Comment
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Also
Also when you secure the back to the clock housing, check the reset function by the knob on the front face of clock. If the back of the case is loose, there is one gear which can sometimes fall out of position, and you will lose the ability to reset the clock. To put the gear back in place you have to take the whole thing apart.
If you can reset the time with the front knob, then you are home free.
Jerry FuccilloJerry Fuccillo
1967 327/300 Convertible since 1968Comment
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Re: Clock Shorting out
THANK YOU to everyone who had comments for me and Gerald thank you for your latest. I think the problem has been solved. I talked to the restorer (Roger) and he appogized for the problem. He said that was the problem with the case coming apart. Apparently when I just tested it,it was ok, but when I put the clips on that pulled the case apart and caused all the shorting. I never noticed the crimping wasn't done well. He wanted me to crimp it. I told him NO, you did the work and you should do all the checking to make sure everything inside was OK. I told him it looked like the clock was taken apart with a crowbar and told him he should really replace the back of the clock. Don't know if he will or not. He had no problem and told me he would do the work himself. He said he had a new guy ( typical ) and he had the problem with the crimping before. So off it goes tommorrow and hopefully it will be done correct this time. I sure learned a lot from this experience and the discussion board. Again, thanks to everyone.Comment
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