1970 LTI Identification Cues

[Rick Church]

Sir,

I have owned several C3s but never an LT1. I am going to travel 300 miles to look a 1970 LT1 convertible. When you have time, I'd like to have a list of several important things to look for to verify that this car is an authentic LT1. I understand there are several differences (I am aware of) including a high rise manifold, distributor, single fuel line to the engine from the tank, larger (AC) radiator, A.I.R. pump with plumbing, all 4-speeds, air cleaner with exposed filter elements, etc. I am concerned that I don't buy a "cloan" and want to verify that the car is the real thing. Any information you can provide will be greatly appreciated (VIN ID). I don't want to make a costly mistake with this car and if it is a real LT1 but has non-matching number items or missing parts, I want to be able to make a justified offer (price) for the car. I hope you can help me out please.

Sincerely,
Rick Church
Clarksville, TN

[Mike E.]

Re: 1970 LTI Identification Cues

Rick--
Tach red line and console hp identification are two other items, which, along with most of the others you have mentioned are easily cloned. There is no specificity in the VIN until 1972. Probably the most difficult item to forge is the single fuel line, but that is easily done if the car has had the body off. I'm not sure what you mean by "larger (AC) radiator". The LT-1 should have copper radiator with molded plastic shroud. Obviously you want to check casting and stamped numbers and dates on all components. You may want to remove the oil fill cap in the valve cover and see if you can see that the heads have screw-in studs and guide plates which the LT-1 has and the other motors do not.
No one item makes (or necessarily breaks) a car as an original LT-1--the clues need to be examined in their entirety. And a master forger can make one that neither you or I can determind was not originally an LT-1. Paperwork and history are also documentation to be evaluated along with everything else.
Good luck--those are nice cars!

[Robert E.]

Re: 1970 LTI Identification Cues

Rick,

Make sure the T.I. amp is still located on the front left fender, or at least the 3 mounting holes that held it in place. Also check the tach for a 6500 rpm redline.

The engine suffix on the pad should either be CTU OR CTK (depending on build date).

Robert
41801

[Warren F.]

Re: 1970 LTI Identification Cues

Rick;

I would also examine carefully the Transistor Ignition system. Look at the wiring harness, amplifier module and its mounting location. Look at the rear differential assembly stamping and codes for higher numerical ratio gears.

Obviously, factory paperwork would be a BIG plus here. There are good forgeries, but not yet absolutely foolproof.

[Wayne K.]

If it is #14741 I can.....

tell you much of first 10 years of its life. I've been trying to locate the current owner with no luck.

Wayne