How do I remove a frozen torque arm ?.

[Patrick T.]

I recently performed a major restoration/replacement of the torque arm assembly and components on my '67: new torque arm, spindle bearings, seals, bushings, SS parking brake shoes, the whole 9 yards, and installed it on the passenger side. Relatively speaking, it was a piece of cake.

Now, moving over to the drivers side, there is a problem: I removed the nut on the long bolt on the forward end of the torque arm which goes through the bushing and frame and tried to remove it, but it wouldn't budge, it was frozen solid to the internal metal of the bushing shaft. I soaked the bolt in rust penetrating oil for a few days and tried to bang it out, but the space here is very limited, and it was no go, the bolt not beak loose from the bushing. Then I tried to free the bolt with a short socket and breaker bar. I managed to turn the bolt about an inch, but when I let go it returned to the same position, indicating that I was only torqueing up the rubber bushing and not busting the bolt free.

After that failed, I thought to vertically bisect the whole bushing and bolt in half with a torch, and then use a cold chisel to pop off the 2 ends off in opposite directions, which would free up the torque arm. But there are some drawbacks to this scenario, i.e., the torch would have to cut through a LOT of steel, which would ignite the rubber in the bushings. (Very Nasty). The extreme heat could damage the frame and maybe the surrounding fiberglass. I don't think this is the way to go.

My next bright idea might work: Crimp a vise grip on the bolt, resting up against the inner fender wall, then use a torch to cut the torque arm all the way through, just ahead of the spindle, and remove the entire spindle and brake assembly, leaving over a foot of torque arm, with plenty of room to work. Then I could insert a steel pole into the torque arm, acting as a lever, and break the bolt free from the bushing. This method seems to be my only recourse, but I'm not going to cut the torque arm in half until I have a shot at the board to see what your experiences were. What would you do ? Any comments would be appreciated.

[Joe L.]

Re: How do I remove a frozen torque arm ?.

Patrick-----

If your car is still fitted with the original trailing arm toe-adjustment shims, then you have a problem on your hands. The original shims had holes in both ends and cannot be removed without first removing the bolt. However, often times these shims are replaced with the 70+ style shims which have a slot, not a hole, in the inboard end. These shims can be removed without removing the bolt. If even only one or two shims on either side of the bushing have been replaced with the slotted type, you should be able to remove these. Then, with a Sawzall you can cut the bolt on both sides of the bushing and out the trailing arm will come.

The problem that you are having is a quite common one for cars that have lived all or part of their lives in the northeast or "rust belt". My car has lived its entire nearly 31 year life in California since the day I purchased it new. My trailing arm bolts come out with the greatest of ease. In fact, the bolts are even so perfect that, if I were of a mind to, I could reuse them.

[William Brown]

Re: How do I remove a frozen torque arm ?.

Can't you cut through the shims and everything with the sawzall? I'm getting ready to replace both the trailing arms on my 68 L-89 and this is what VanSteel advised me to be prepared to do. Otherwise I don't know how you could get them off!

Corey

[Patrick H.]

Re: How do I remove a frozen torque arm ?.

Hi,

I did my friend's car with a Sawzall, and we went through SEVERAL blades, and it took forever. When we did mine a few weeks later, a few minutes with a torch and we both couldn't believe how easy it was.

Now, these were '71 cars, and the shims had been removed, as they had slots. This of course gave us good access.

If people have used a Sawzall, I think it would be prudent to know what BLADE they used, as we tried several types without resounding success. Thus, the torch. And, if you don't mind a little burning rubber smell, it was easier than we had thought.

BTW, my car spent quite a bit of time in California, and my RIGHT trailing arm bolt just slid out. The LEFT, however, did not.

Good luck,

Patrick Hulst

[Brian Bates]

Re: How do I remove a frozen torque arm ?.

Patrick -

Three months ago I had the same issue. My right side trailing arm assembly came apart without a problem and the left side would not budge. I even had the body off of the car and had a clear shot at the bolt with a substantial breaker bar and still could not move the bolt.

I ended up using a sawzall and going through about 6 high quality blades. I cut directly between the outer bushing retainer and the first shim on both sides of the arm. After about an hour of careful cutting it broke loose. You have to be very careful with the saw because the depth of the pocket in the frame is not enough for the blade to travel its complete distance. You need a steady hand and a great deal of patience. Good luck.

[Joe L.]

Re: How do I remove a frozen torque arm ?.

Patrick----

Apparently, although your car spent a lot of time in California, it didn't spend ENOUGH TIME in California.

[Joe L.]

Re: How do I remove a frozen torque arm ?.

william------

Yes, you can cut through shims and all. However, the job is drastically more difficult with the shims still in place. Always best to remove some or all if you can. If you can just get one of the 1/8" ones out, you can get the Sawzall blade right to the bolt.

[Chuck G.]

Re: How do I remove a frozen torque arm ?.

I agree with all others, but I'll add one thing. Being a dentist in my real life, I love to use die grinders. It's a natural "fit". (No comments, please!!). I've cut a few trailing arm bolts off using a die grinder. It "ain't" pretty, but you can get in there and cut/grind away most of the shims. Cut, chisel, pound, pry, etc. Once you have access to a clear area of bolt, use the die grinder to cut through it too. I think it's easier using a die grinder because it's smaller, and easier to use. Sawzalls are big and tough to manipulate. The only advantage is that the blades are obviously thinner. I've seen the "blue wrench" (torch) used, and in the right hands (not mine) it's very effective. Hope this helps. Chuck

[Patrick T.]

Re: How do I remove a frozen torque arm ?.

Thanks for all of the advice, but one post has me wondering: If my car spent so many years in the "rust belt", why is my tank sticker in such good condition ?

[Patrick H.]

Re: How do I remove a frozen torque arm ?.

Joe,

I believe that the year in Massachusetts followed by two sitting outside in Pennsylvania before I bought it didn't do it any good. As I've noted before, though, the frame is good and fasteners in general really have very little rust. It is much better than my Dad's Florida car (which we have discussed on the Board before).

Sitting inside during inclement weather now, as well as in a heated garage enclosed in a Car Jacket during the winter, is my way of rewarding it for putting up with the neglect while waiting for me to rescue it. :)

Patrick

[Patrick H.]

Rust and Tank stickers

Patrick,

Depends where it was stored, and what it did. If it rusted inside a garage, which can absolutely happen with the condensation due to temperature extremes, your tank itself doesn't see the elements but the frame and metal parts can rust.

A friend bought a 74 convertible several years ago out of NJ with only 40,000 miles, which had sat in a garage for 10 years after the first owner died. The condensation essentially rusted all the chassis severely, and it was not a pretty sight. In addition, a 72 coupe here in MI with 55,000 miles sat in a garage for 10 years, coming out 2 years ago. The frame and all chassis parts have rust, but the outside of the car, interior, etc are perfect. The condensation coming up off the cement just eats at the undercarriage. And, of course, as the car isn't moving and otherwise seeing the elements, the tank sticker does well.

Or, of course, it could be sheer luck.

Patrick Hulst

[Dave Koch #30793]

Re: How do I remove a frozen torque arm ?.

I went through a similar situation on my 66 last summer. Left side came off with little effort. But the right side was completely frozen. My sawzal worked great. As I recall I had to remove the sawzal's shoe to gain the needed reach, but was able to cut through the shims and bolt. I think I broke two or three blades.

Dave Koch #30793