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I have the Al Knoch pre-molded interior for my '70 convertible and am ready to install it. I need installation suggestions and tips to make it less laborious. I was going to install some foil faced heat/noise reducer padding under it but the carpet already has padding on the backsides and I'm afraid it will raise the carpet too high. The left and right fender well side pieces have me wondering how they stay on. Are they supposed to have the rubber grommets to hold them in place?
Thanks all.
I have been working on my 68 and have taken apart mine and one other 68 also. Both had spray adhesive holding the carpet in place. The push in hold downs are only on the fire wall area from what I have seen so far.
Thanks, Steve. I'm armed with super duty spray adhesive, vinyl gloves, and other installation aids. I just need any special tips to make the job easier and make it look nice. Since mine is a convertible it should be easier to access the rear.
Scott,
I just did this on my 68 coupe about two months back. I used 3M heavy Duty Spray Adhesive (be careful of fumes) and I placed foil heat/noise barrier under the carpet, and it came out great. I had never done it before. I started in the rear, did the wheelwells and then the rear compartment floor area , then the bulkhead and finally the left and right front floor using the rubber plugs in the firewall to hold it in place. As regards the front floor pieces, the front console and emergency brake console hold everything in place nicely against the transmission tunnel and the sill plates and kick panels hold the other side so I did not use adhesive on the front floor portions. I only used the adhesive on the rear floor, bulkhead, and rear wheeel wells and everything went together well. Lay out the carpet before you start and let it reach room temp so it is easier to manipulate. Ideally, most guys lay it out in the sun to get it real soft and pliable but I am in New England and it is cold her so was not an option for me.
The carpet came with the jute backing already glued in place and I purchased aluminum heat /noise insulation from Home Depot, I think it was called reflectix or something. Comes in different width rolls, I purchased 24inc wide roll and had plenty left over. It lays into all the nooks and crannis nicely. I did glue that stuff down so it wouldn't shift around. Once installed, you cannot tell it is there and the carpets still fit nicely over it.
All in all, this was a task that came out very well and was very satisfying.
Good luck,
Kurt # 26406
Scott,
I believe the early C3 convertibles have a couple of those rubber plugs at the back bulkhead to hold up the rear vertical carpet -- I know 1971 has them, but I am not sure about earlier.
We had a story in The Restorer a couple of years ago about how to install those rubber retainers. They can be a challenge if you don't know a couple of tricks. Be sure the replacements look like the originals -- if you intend to have your car judged.
I recall something back up in the rear that held the old carpet up. I have a package of carpet grommets from Paragon. Silicone spray and needle nose pliers ought to do the trick.
I have heard that Al Knoch has the best premolded carpet with correct heel pads and the seat covers are as close to originals as possible. My Comfortweave seat covers came from Al Knoch and they are just like the ones I removed.
As luck has it there is an excellent article on insulation and carpet installation in the new issue (april 2006) of Corvette Fever magazine. The subject car was a C2 but many of the tips and tricks are universal. I just finished 2 C3's recently with carpet supplied by Al Knoch. I can't say enough about AK. The car I did had the original carpet and heel pads and were a spot a match for what I recieved.
Don't be in a rush. If you think your car needs the extra insulation then now is the time to do it. If you need to drop your steering wheel to fix a problem in the dash like a speedo/tach or bulb replacement, the time to do it on a C3 is when the seats are out. Measure everything twice. If you have the original carpet compare what you are about to cut to what you took out. The hardest part on the front carpet is the bulkhead just outboard of where your feet are. The carpet I got required t******* here. Too much and you have a fit issue and too little and the kick panels will not snug against the chassis. I cut a little at a time until it worked rather than take a lot off and blow it. Also the carpet will not be cut for the seat adjusters from AK. When done properly you will leave a carpet "flap" on the front seat rails that covers where it bolts down. I used no glue at all on the front carpet sets. If done properly you won't need it. The rear carpet required less t******* but more glue ie on storage doors, wheel wells and across the back bulkhead which also has the rubber retainers. I used 3M spray adhesive from a parts store. The article that I mentioned had a good idea about replacing floor plugs while the carpet was out.
Thanks, Charles. I never thought about those floor plugs as the original heat barrier stuff is still on the floors covering them up. I do appreciate the tips so I can be more careful where I need to be. Due to previous mechanical work we already had the dash apart and replaced bulbs and other stuff while there. I will probably go ahead and use the heat/noise foil faced padding, too. After owning two previous C-3s I know all too well the heat problems in the interior. We've installed the foil heat barrier on the transmission and the rubber heat barrier between the bell housing and lower firewall. Anything to make it less hot and more quiet.
I installed ACC in my '79 a few months ago and the passenger side was not cut right. Of course, I did buy them cheap off eBay and they may have been seconds or something, which was probably why the guy was selling them.
They look good now, but there was some twisting and persuading done to get there.
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