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Re: Help with Block stamp pad...v2
Jim ---- FWIW and I'm certainly no expert, the items that jump out are:
1. It lacks the TFP broach marks. This pad shows marks at abour 30 degrees from parallel with the block.
2. Character spacing for FI202HE appears not TFP. Spacing between the H and E is greater than between the numbers 202.
Just my 2 pennys worth. Hope someone else provides more difinitive comments.
Kent #6201Kent
1967 327/300 Convert. w/ Air - Duntoved in 1994
1969 427/435 Coupe - 1 previous owner
2006 Coupe - Driver & Fun Car !!!
NCM Founder - Member #718- Top
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thks kent....
I agree. This motor is a real conundrum. Original old low-horse non-ncrs (wrong color) well kept with POP kinda car. Just darn hard to believe the need to restamp. The lack of patina on the pad is what really jumps out at me. Almost looks decked, filed, and re-stamped. The investigation continues.....
Thanks- Top
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Re: Help with Block stamp pad...v2
I aslo agree with Kent in that the machining marks are nowhere near typical of factory machining process.Bill Clupper #618- Top
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Re: thks kent....
Doesn't look like my 67 or 68 pads which are supposed to be originals. Wrong broach marks or lack of. The numbers appear uneven as the others have said. The lack of "patina" could be due to a rebuild / hot tank / glass beading, etc. but the rest of the issues make the engine / pad highly suspect in my opinion also (for what it's worth).
Steve- Top
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Re: thks kent....
The photo doesnt fairly represent the machining marks. There are parallel broach marks radiating from the head side to the front. They do appear more like file marks rather than factory broach. The CLEAN (no patina pad) could be a hot tank or bead blast result. Anybody have a beadblasted example out there they are willing to share????????? Anybody have spacing similer to the HE in this pic?????????? I have been lookin for so long that I want to believe very badly that this is the real deal. Suppose I cant wish it so.
Thanks yalllllll..............
Jim- Top
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Re: ya...but
Jim,
The slight tilt or variation in spacing would be typical of a gang stamp as there's usually at least .020"-.030" OL aditional for the pack of seven but the spacing for the last two characters is almost exactly half the width of a character greater than would be possible. You can actually measure the centerline to centerline dim between characters right on your computer screen and you will find that this dim generally never varies more than the dim above. Also, if you measure the entire package length of all seven characters, from the far left of the left character, to the far right of last character, you will find that the dim is not even close to the typical 1.025". (physical dim, not on your computer screen).
I have one of each of the original tools and years ago, we tested and tried to do sample stamps on cast iron using every non typical style of strike imaginable, trying to see just how far off we could make the package length span change. It always came out to nearly the same dim, +/- about .035". The tools that I have and the individual character slugs are old and well worn so I would expect a new holder and new characters would be slightly closer to specs on package length.
If you have the instrument, or a good machinists rule, measure the length of the group. I would guess it's longer than typical by more than 1/8".- Top
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"The Tool"
Jim,
Here's a poor quality pic of the tool that should explain how the characters are held in place. The opening in the end of the holder is just slightly larger than the package of character slugs which would limit the amount that each character can shift left/right or up/down. The C/L of each character is positioned exactly on the C/L of each slug.
I scanned this pic a few years ago on a poor quality scanner so much of the detail is lost. I'll dig into the box and try to find it later and rescan properly.
- Top
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Re: Help with Block stamp pad...
Jim, Click on link and you can compare.
http://www.c2registry.org/index.php?...ure&pic_id=342- Top
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