Wheel Bearing Grease Recommendation - NCRS Discussion Boards

Wheel Bearing Grease Recommendation

Collapse
X
 
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts
  • Christopher R.
    Extremely Frequent Poster
    • March 31, 1975
    • 1599

    Wheel Bearing Grease Recommendation

    Changing the wheel bearings from ball bearings to roller bearings in my C1. New bearings and races. Hubs are completely cleaned. Now looking for wheel bearing grease to pack the bearings. I can buy:

    drum brake grease
    disc brake grease
    drum and disc brake grease
    constant veleocity (CV) joint grease
    lithium based grease
    sodium based grease

    Any recommendations?
  • Mike S.
    Expired
    • March 1, 2005
    • 125

    #2
    Re: Wheel Bearing Grease Recommendation

    disc brake grease.has higher temp before break down.Mike

    Comment

    • Joe L.
      Beyond Control Poster
      • February 1, 1988
      • 43193

      #3
      Re: Wheel Bearing Grease Recommendation

      Chris-----

      I prefer Valvoline Synthetic High Temperature Disc Brake Lubricant, Product #985, for all wheel bearing applications.
      In Appreciation of John Hinckley

      Comment

      • Roy B.
        Expired
        • February 1, 1975
        • 7044

        #4
        Re: Wheel Bearing Grease Recommendation

        You will notice better steering too

        Comment

        • Dennis C.
          NCRS Past Judging Chairman
          • January 1, 1984
          • 2409

          #5
          Frankly, I've never noticed any discernable...

          ...(take me to the bank) driving difference between the 2 bearing types. Just make sure you don't preload the tapered rollers @ 13#...

          Comment

          • Christopher R.
            Extremely Frequent Poster
            • March 31, 1975
            • 1599

            #6
            Re: Preloading Tapered Roller Bearings

            No preload at all??? If I need to preload them just a tiny bit in order to get the cotter pin in - is that OK? Or, is it better to back off the nut and allow some wiggle in there? Doesn't the wiggle defeat the purpose of the roller bearing?

            Comment

            • Terry D.
              Extremely Frequent Poster
              • May 31, 1987
              • 2690

              #7
              Agree With Dennis, Not worth the Cost! *NM*

              Comment

              • Dennis C.
                NCRS Past Judging Chairman
                • January 1, 1984
                • 2409

                #8
                In the one C1 I did switch over...

                ...I just followed the instructions in the 1963 Service Manual. I recall they use about a 0 preload, but I'd rather hear the wisdom of a C2 or newer type guy on this subject, not mine.

                Comment

                • Michael H.
                  Expired
                  • January 29, 2008
                  • 7477

                  #9
                  Re: Preloading Tapered Roller Bearings

                  Chris,

                  Dennis is absolutely correct. The tapered roller bearing design definitely requires some clearance if used in a non relubricating situation, such as wheel/spindle applications. If I remember correctly, the end play measurement is .001-.007. While a ball bearing is content with zero, or even a slight preload, the tapered roller design will fail before long at zero. The onlt applications where a tapered roller bearing can run with zero, or even preloaded, is when there is a steady supply of fresh lubricant, such as the bearings in a differential.

                  Also, the slight end play in a tapered roller design bearing will not make any difference in the way your C1 drives. The switch to roller from ball style bearings was for durability. I would definitely use the original ball bearings unless you plan on putting 100,000 miles on the car.

                  Comment

                  • Duke W.
                    Beyond Control Poster
                    • January 1, 1993
                    • 15610

                    #10
                    Re: In the one C1 I did switch over...

                    I've been through this tapered roller bearing front adjustment procedure before, but here we go again.

                    Shop manuals recommend giving the wheel a spin and then tightening the nut to about 10-20 lb-ft.

                    This initial "preload" is merely done to ensure that THE BEARINGS ARE SEATED.

                    The final procedure is to obtain the specified END PLAY!!!

                    The nut is 24 threads per inch and there are two perpendicular cotter pin holes in the spindle, so each advance of the castle nut to the next available cotter pin installation (which would be the perpendicular hole relative to the initial insertion) is 1/12 turn or (1/24)(1/12) = .0035", which is the source of the .001 to .005" end play spec, and there is ONLY one postion of the nut and cotter key to achieve this.

                    Tighten the nut finger tight and insert the cotter pin. Grab the top and bottom of the wheel and wiggle. If you can feel play, remove the cotter pin, advance the nut 1/12 turn and reinsert the cotter pin in the perpendicular hole. If you can still feel play, repeat the above, even if you have to use a wrench to turn the nut another 1/12" turn. Once you can feel NO play (and you should also feel more resisitance to turning the nut) back off 1/12 turn and feel for play. If you can feel play, then the end play should be within spec. Spread the cotter pin.

                    You can also use a dial indicator, but an experienced hand can "feel" when this is achived.

                    In my experience tighter end play yields more precise steering, and if the play is on the high end of the spec, it's easy to dress down the washer two or three thou on a flat surface with a piece of 280 or so paper. Of course, measure the washer thickness with a mic to begin with and dress until you've knocked off two to three thou.

                    Then reinstall and advance the nut 1/12th turn and insert the cotter pin in the hole perpendicual to the previous installation. Clearance should be less by the amount you dressed off the washer.

                    I like to shoot for .0010 to .0015".

                    As a point of reference the end play spec on my '88 Mercedes is .01-.02 mm, which is .0004-.0008", which is a TIGHT range - less than half a thou! In order to achieve this, the spindle nut is a pinch type that allows it to be secured at any arbitrary clock position.

                    Duke

                    Comment

                    Working...

                    Debug Information

                    Searching...Please wait.
                    An unexpected error was returned: 'Your submission could not be processed because you have logged in since the previous page was loaded.

                    Please push the back button and reload the previous window.'
                    An unexpected error was returned: 'Your submission could not be processed because the token has expired.

                    Please push the back button and reload the previous window.'
                    An internal error has occurred and the module cannot be displayed.
                    There are no results that meet this criteria.
                    Search Result for "|||"