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A few days ago there was a discussion on this subject. I thought my bad experience with this might help someone. I bought a rebuilt 427 long block for my 67 convertible. After assembly I tried to install a ball bearing type pilot bearing and destroyed it putting it in. It was a bear getting the pieces out. Tried to put a bronze bushing in and it jammed going in, too tight. Got it out with a tap and then decided to measure the bore for it. It was around 1.074" instead of the standard 1.090-092!!??. So, I bought another and machined it down for a proper press fit. During this process we noticed that the OD was not concentric with the ID, seen as a wobble on the arbor made just for it in the lathe. I believe this is a cast part which was poorly made (in China?) Machining it made it ok and it works fine but the lesson is you've got to watch out for every detail and assume nothing.
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Re: Pilot Bushing
You should also check any pilot bushing with a magnet before you leave the parts store; there are still lots of counterfeit Chinese bushings out there that are mostly iron instead of Oilite bronze; they don't self-lubricate, and can eat the case-hardening off the pilot on your input shaft. -
Re: Pilot Bushing
John-----
For the life of me I cannot understand why the pilot bushing bore in your crankshaft is 1.074". The GM pilot bushing is and always was 1.094". This would mean a 0.030" interference fit. NO WAY is that going to work.In Appreciation of John HinckleyComment
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after market crank?????? *NM*
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Re: Pilot Bushing
Exactly Joe, that's why I destroyed the first one and then had to machine one for a proper press fit. I told the engine builder about this and he was no help.
I didn't do enough research into his credentials, was in an unnecessary hurry and paid too much. It runs fine but I would not go that way again. Got caught up in it..Comment
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