Trailer Tie-Down Procedure

[Frank C.]

Re: Trailer Tie-Down Procedure

Randy...I noticed no one mentioned stapping the rear wheels to the trailor. Maybe something has been learned about that method since the '70s when i used to do that on the drag car. I used a regular 4" truck belt over the rear tires and traveled thousands of miles with never any problems. If someone has found a problem with this method I would sure like to hear it.

[Terry M.]

Re: Trailer Tie-Down Procedure

Many people advocate the use of Tire Nets -- a web system which fits over the tire -- which sounds similar to what you are describing. The advantage is that the vehicle's suspension is free to move as the trailer goes over bumps in the road. The down side of this system is that the trailer has to have tie-down attaching mechanism (usually tracks) in line with the tires. Most trailers do not come equipped with that type of system.

[Randy R.]

Re: Trailer Tie-Down Procedure

I am now in overload...Perhaps it is time to take a vote on the best method. I have spent so much time and money on my car that I do not want to damage it in ANY way. I am capable enough to modify the trailer to accept E-channels and perhaps that will be the way to go on the rear, along with using the "R" clips. In regards to the front, I would like to cross the straps, the "R" clips will make that difficult unless I don't cross them. I could put E-channel up front as well. Tire nets are also an interesting idea, however I have never seen them in use and wouldn't know were to get them. They would require E-channel as well I guess. In summary, I'm not in a rush to get this done and want to do it right and protect both my car and fellow travelers on the road.

[mike cobine]

Re: I've heard of T-hooks

Do you have any links for the R hooks? I can't find them in a search on the Internet.

[Terry M.]

Here is an R-hook

from Art's posting above -- the second one in the thread

http://www.truckntow.com/pc-11281-147164-r-hook.aspx

[mike cobine]

Re: Trailer Tie-Down Procedure

The advantage is that the vehicle's suspension is free to move as the trailer goes over bumps in the road.

This is only an advantage if you have an unsprung trailer. Most have springs unless homemade.

If you have a load that is jumping up and down, you get very complicated with how the mass is moving around and such. Notice that most professional trucking companies chain or strap their loads secureely to the trailer, not leaving them to jump up and down.

One disadvantage is you wear the suspension of the car. Those nice expensive shocks you bought will be used much faster than normal.

Of course, you will get many who argue this is the best system.

[Terry M.]

http://www.ssbtractor.com/trailer_2.html

[mike cobine]

Re: Here is an R-hook

Thanks, Terry. I guess I've never seen one of those.

When you post pictures, the link in the Image URL box has to end in gif, jpg, jpeg, or other image extension. That is why your picture didn't show up.

[mike cobine]

Everyone has a right way, and

everyone else has the wrong way. That is how trailering discussions usually end up. In the long run, do what you think is best, be sure to use good quality straps or chains, double up as much as possible on redundant systems, and check them occasionally as you go down the road to be sure something didn't break or get loose.

I have been towing for a long time and a lot of miles and yet last summer, I checked the straps on a car near I55 and I24, and just past Paducah, a wide load guy flagged me that I was dragging a strap. The ratchet end and all were gone, only about 5 feet of frayed loose end I had tied to the trailer was still hanging. I'll never know why it came off, since I tie the loose end around the ratchet so they cannot open.

Luckily, there were three other straps still on the car, 2 front, 1 rear. I pulled another strap out of the truck and continued to Florida with no further incidents.

[John Walker]

Re: Everyone has a right way, and

Mike; I hauled heavy eqitment for years( including smaller items such as company pick-ups and such) and I always preferred to tie somthing that wouldn't move to my trailer bed. By thisI mean I would tie the wheels/tires or axles to the trailer and not the chassis. My reasoning for this is I had several items loosen or break chains by boucing on the suspension. It is not normally possible to (or desirable) to completely collapse the suspension and therfore it is possible to hit a large enough bump(usually high speed dips) to bounce dowm enough to put slack in your tie-down and when the item bounces up it puts much more breaking stress on the tie-down. By tieing the tires/axles you can eliminate virtually all of the bounce down effect. jmho from one who no longer lowbeds anything. Many of the ways described above will work just fine. Also I prefer to angle down roughly 45 degrees and I either angle out or in(ie crossing) the tie-downs just to stop the sideways movement as well. John

[Randy R.]

Re: Pants and Suspenders

seems to be the way I will start out. I have already purchased ratchet straps and axle straps. I just purchased the "R" hooks and will start attaching "E" channel relatively soon...why not use it all! Eventually as I understand the trailering process, I can select what works best. I may look a bit paranoid at first but I will be safe and secure. Thanks again to all of you for the great advice. I hope to see you at a show in the future...we can talk trailer!

[Terry M.]

Thanks Mike, I'm new to picture posts *NM*

[Randy R.]

Re: I should have said Belt and Suspenders

Duh!

[Art A.]

Re: Trailer Tie-Down Procedure

Randy, FWIW dept, I can secure or un-secure my Corvette in less than 10 minuets with the E track and R hooks......and I feel very confident that it isn't going anywhere.
As far as the fronts go, I do not cross them. Mine go straight forward and slightly out board. I do cross the rears.
The ratchets have a locking feature and it is done after you do your final tighting. You simply close the ratchet and it will snap into place and won't come open until you release the pawl. BTW it is sort of a failsafe system because if you have ratched the strap to much (too tight) it will not lock into this locked position.
I have used the tire nets, as they are called, and I found them to be very non-user friendly.

[Dick W.]

Re: Pants and Suspenders

The "E" track is the only way to go. I have been using it since 1994 with NO problems. The track is bolted to every crossmember under the trailer. I also have the track on part of the side walls. My trailer has 7' inside clearance and I can use track over the car, creating more storage space.