distributor/points/rotor

[Don Whitehead]

Hi Folks,
Was having some ignition probelms with my 1960 dual point distributor. I noticed the rotor from sSandard was very loose, DR309. Delco is not making them anymore. I got some Blue Streak points and condenser that seem to work, dr2236xp
and put in an old rotor I had. Fixed the problem. But it raises the question, what manufacturers are producing parts that are till up to spec? ie cap, conden, points, rotor?
Is it time to put in a Pertronics? What success are folks having with that?
If any is using/recommends the Pertronix, there are two models of that, which one is for the dual point 2X4 - #891 distributor?
Thoughts?

[lyndon sharpton]

Re: distributor/points/rotor

I am doing away with my points.

[Mike B.]

Re: distributor/points/rotor

Don,

I just purchased a Pertronix kit for my 1961 Delco 891 dual point distributor. You need to get kit #1183. I bought it online for $69.98 (free shipping) from Carshop 800-603-4359. Tim at Carshop was very helpful.

I just mounted it in my distributor but I have not yet run the car. It is a simple installation but be advised that the instructions are garbage. For starters the adapter plate must be mounted in the reverse orientation to what is shown in the instructions. Otherwise it is pretty straight forward. I am not quite sure how to set up the initial timing as it is impossible to tell when the "points" open. Again, the instructions provide no help. Also note that there are red and black leads that will exit the distributor (they go to the + and - coil posts) as opposed to the single black primary wire as with regular points. You can mask this somewhat by putting black shrink tubing on the wires so it looks like a single black lead.

I am within a few weeks of finishing the engine rebuild. I will post better instructions once I get all of the kinks worked out and fire it up.

And sorry I can't help you on recommending proper fitting aftermarket components. I usually have good luck with NAPA (Eichlin) but everything is made in Mexico, China or somewhere other than the US.

[John H.]

Re: distributor/points/rotor

The instructions in those old Pertronix kits also don't bother to mention that the red (power) wire for the module wants a full 12 volts, not the reduced voltage provided at the coil (+) terminal. Connect the red wire to the ignition switch side of the resistor so it gets 12 volts, and leave the coil (+) connected to the secondary side of the resistor.

[Verne Frantz]

Re: distributor/points/rotor

John,
The instructions with the Pooptronics unit do indeed indicate that a ballast resistor needs to be by-passed for a full 12V dc to the coil.
For every one of those units I've installed, I've ripped out an equal number of them in favor of the original points system.

Want to buy a 100mpg carbeuatieter?

.
(nothing personal - you have my utmost respect)

[Don Whitehead]

Re: distributor/points/rotor

Thanks,
If I use the coil from Pertronix, do I even still need the ballast resistor? It was my understanding I did not need it. The ballast resistor was used since the stock coils were left over from the 6 volt days and needed a sterp down in voltage?

[Don Whitehead]

Re: distributor/points/rotor

Hi Verne,
Why have you ripped them out? Whats wrong with them?
Don

[John H.]

Re: distributor/points/rotor

Don -

You'll have to check with Pertronix to see what their coil is designed for; some aftermarket coils are designed to operate on 12 volts, and some are designed to operate at 7-8 volts like the OEM coils were. Stock coils weren't "left over from the 6-volt days"; they were designed for the 12-volt system, but are intentionally run at 7-8 volts to improve point life, and only see a full 12 volts during cranking (from the "R" terminal on the solenoid).

[Michael W.]

Re: distributor/points/rotor

Well known for sudden failures leaving you stranded. There's no performance advantage over stock points, so why bother?

[Verne Frantz]

Re: distributor/points/rotor

Don,
I removed them because the motors ran terribly. Non-starting, erratic timing, back-firing through the carb, sudden firing out of sequence so bad I worried about bending a rod. I set them up as carefully as I could, according to the directions, but found they were not reliable. The car could run fine, then the next time you tried to start it all hell broke loose. Maybe every distributor had a loose shaft, but there were no problems after converting back to an OEM ignition system.
I'm sure many people have had good luck with them, but I haven't. And I don't consider myself a novice backyard mechanic. I will never install another one. I think most of these units are being installed on cars that don't see the road more than a few thousand miles each year, so why not just put in a set of points each year? They don't wear out; they probably just oxidize from sitting in the garage too long.
I guess I just believe there's nothing wrong, or problem prone, with the OEM ignition system if it's properly maintained. And it's simple and inexpensive to do that.