1967 BB Intermittent no engine crank problem

[Guest]

Can anyone offer me advice on a problem I have with my 67 390 hp concerning intermittent no crank (no start) on ignition? When I turn the ignition key, nothing happens. If I turn the key off, then turn the key back on, the car may crank over. If it doesn't, I turn the key off and try again. I can always get the car to crank over after numerous attempts. I have replaced the battery and battery cables. The starter and solenoid is about 4 years old and is a rebuilt unit. I cannot rule out the starter and solenoid since I don't remember having this trouble before replacing the starter/solenoid combo. I'm thinking of replacing the solenoid as a first step. I'm wondering if the ignition switch can be going bad and can cause the intermittent no start situation? Any advice please?

[Phil P.]

Re: 1967 BB Intermittent no engine crank problem

connect a trouble light to the start side of your starter solinoid---then give it a try --this will isolate the problem area---ignition switch or starter solinoid

[William C.]

Re: 1967 BB Intermittent no engine crank problem

It is pretty easy to jump the power feed at the solenoid to the pin that activates the solenoid with a screwdriver and thus determine if the soleniod/starter combination is working properly. If so, check the connection under the brake master cylinder at the firewall, remove the connectors, look for any obvious sign of corrosion, clean, add a little dialectric grease and reconnect. if that does not cure your problem, it may then be time to replace the ignition switch, but not until all other possibilites have been eliminated.

[Guest]

Re: 1967 BB Intermittent no engine crank problem

Thanks for the responses. I've determined that the solenoid is getting power when the key is turned to start in every attempt. When the engines doesn't crank over, I can hear a clanking sound which sounds like the starter engaging but nothing happens. Maybe it is getting bound up? Any other additional thoughts? Can the starter be bad but work sometime?
Steve

[Jack H.]

Re: 1967 BB Intermittent no engine crank problem

Could be the switch contact in your starter solenoid... There's no protection for arcing when the circuit 'makes' and over the years, the contact surface deterioriates, losing metal from the arcing.

The trick is to dismount the solenoid from the starter and remove the black Bakelite cover. You'll see the contact surface is the head of a brass carriage bolt that nests in the Bakelite cover.

Only one half of the head of the carriage bolt makes electrical contact during cranking. Those solenoids that haven't been rebuilt before will likely have a pristine condition on the opposite half of the bolt head. Solution: push the carriage bolt out, rotate it 90-degrees and you're good to go for another +50K miles on the opposite contact surface.

Now, if the solenoid's already been gone through and both halves of the carriage bolt head are arced/chewed, it's time to replace it...

[Kevin M.]

[Roy B.]

Re: 1967 BB Intermittent no engine crank problem

Jack & Kevin give great advise , but then you may have a dead spot on the starter armature,

[Ken Edmunds]

Re: I know what it is

A better quick fix is to run a wire from the hot terminal on the horn relay along the inner fender and through the firewall at the hood cable grommet. Connect the end inside the car to the breaker mounted above the left kick panel. It provides another 12 volt path into tne car. I keep a jumper wire rolled up in the glove box and helped a few cars limp home with it.

[Kevin M.]

Re: 1967 BB Intermittent no engine crank problem

Roy,

I think your on to it, I'll bet even after I fix this short I get the click no start, it just feels so much like a starter problem. Thanks for the armature lead.

Kevin

[Kevin M.]

Re: I know what it is

Thanks Ken

That sounds like a much shorted path than I was thinking of taking. Might be time for that hidden kill switch too. What gauge wire?

Kevin

[Ken Edmunds]

Re: I know what it is

I like to take an old underhood harness and strip the red #12 wire out of it that runs to the horn relay. They are usually in great shape and have a factory end on them, and when installed look much like the red wire that feeds the factory air conditioning on a 1967 corvette.

[Kevin M.]

Sad Day

Ken,

Up till a month ago I'd run out to my trusty Memory Lane in Sun Valley and grab what you suggested. But alas they moved an hour away to Willmington so I'll put this on my big list for things on my first trip to the new location. Unless you have a spare lying around.

Kevin