LUK Clutch, PP T.O. Bearing

[Rodney#40542]

I purchased a LUK kit in 2004 and my restoration got to the point of installing it now. I dropped the body back on the car and hooked up the clutch linkage and I got a big problem. I don't have enough adjustment on the rod to get the clutch to disengage. I have the rod all the way to the end and I don't start getting any resistance from the pressure plate until the pedal is about an inch or 2 from the floor. I measured the old PP out of the car and it is 2 1/2 inches thick. The LUK installed is 2 1/4. I bought the 04-021 kit that was on the LUK web page for my car a 66 327/300 hp coupe 4 speed. Does anyone have any suggestions?

[Jim T.]

Re: LUK Clutch, PP T.O. Bearing

Do not have knowledge of the LUK kit, however is the new T.O. bearing the same height as the old one?

[John G.]

Re: LUK Clutch, PP T.O. Bearing

I installed the exact same LuK clutch, 04-021, in my car, too. I used the LuK supplied T.O. bearing that also came with the PP. After adjusting for pedal free play I had about 5/16 - 3/8 inch of thread left showing on the end of the clutch rod. With the previous clutch I was maxxed out on the clutch rod adjustment. With double nuts holding the swivel in place there were no extra threads showing at the end of the clutch rod. The previous clutch was the old style Borg and Beck 3-finger.

All things considered worn mechanical clutch linkage might be causing the problem you describe. You might double check to see that the T.O. bearing is installed correctly on the clutch fork, also.

I did replace the swivel fitting on the end of the clutch rod which seemed to help gain a few threads of adjustment as the original swivel had worn through to about half its diameter.

John

[Rodney#40542]

Re: LUK Clutch, PP T.O. Bearing

the new T.O. bearing is the same thickness as the old one. With the old plate installed I had about 3/4 inch left on the rod. On the new one I have to take the end nut off and have the swivel at the very end of the rod and then I get resistance about an inch or so from the floor.

[Ray C.]

Re: LUK Clutch, PP T.O. Bearing

I am having the same problem with a 63 clutch purchased from NAPA. My dad taught me many years ago to match up the old part with new part prior to assembly. I whish I would have followed his advise.

The first clutch from NAPA was the Borg-Beck type and I had ordered a diaphragm type. It was made in China.

The Second type was the correct diaphragm type and it was made in Korea. This is the one I am having problems with.
I was wondering if so many parts are being imported that the specifications have become generic or for more than one application and we are now receiving parts that do not meet original specifications.

Ray

[David M.]

Re: LUK Clutch, PP T.O. Bearing

Had this problem with a 4 speed Chevelle with M-22. Parts counter said "correct part" so did the books. Took it back second time they gave me another that was now the "correct" one. Still didnt work. Took it back again and finally someone behind the counter said "ya you do have the wrong one". 4th trip to the store, 4 different assemblies later and the 30th time in and out with the clutch/trans. I finally got it to work. Took a number/letter stamping kit out and stamped yoyo on the trans it was up/down so many times! Lesson learned always keep the old part for comparison and if you think its wrong it is. Sometimes the parts guy IS wrong. Somewhere there is literature stating "how to find the proper clutch assy depth when its an unknown". I'll try to dig it out. From memory pull the trans and clutch off leaving just the bell housing attached to the block with the TO fork in place. The measurements come off the flywheel to trans flange(inside) and the flywheel face to fork face in the rest position or something simular to that. I think I got the info directly from the manufacture, Hayes. As the others said either the linkage is worn/wrong or theres a parts compatibility issue. Did you go from B&B style to diaphram or visa-versa? If so there could be the prob. I think the TO bearing and possibly the fork is different from one to the other.

[Ray C.]

Re: LUK Clutch, PP T.O. Bearing

Hi! Dave

I ordered a diaphragm type clutch and they supplied a B&B type. I returned the whole B&B set up for the correct or I thought it was correct diaphragm clutch. I just got off the phone with NAPA and they have two different through-out bearings, one is 1 1/4" and the other is 1 13/16". Napa is calling the clutch manufacture to determine the correct bearing for my car.

1963 clutch question: was the same type of clutch used for the early BW T-10 as the latter Muncie? The reason I ask, the T-10 in my 61 has the helper spring for the heavier B&B type clutch where as the Muncie transmission did not.

Thanks for all the information!!
Ray

[Ray C.]

Re: LUK Clutch, PP T.O. Bearing

This evening I received a call from the NAPA store in reference to the through-out bearing. He received his information from the manufacture of the NAPA clutches. Because the Corvette clutches were very limited production the proper through-out bearing may not have been in the kit. He also stated that the remedy would be to increase the length of the clutch fork pivot stud. I feel since this clutch has not been engaged and it is still under warranty that I should be able to return the clutch for a refund and purchase a clutch from another source.

What would be the best clutch for a 1963 340HP.

Thanks

Ray

[John H.]

Re: LUK Clutch, PP T.O. Bearing

Ray -

Paragon sells a LuK "RepSet" bent-finger 10.5" diaphragm clutch (like the original) with the correct 1-1/4" throwout bearing that will work fine.

[Ray C.]

Re: LUK Clutch, PP T.O. Bearing

Thanks John

Ray