I want to send a waterpump out for rebuilding since I do not have the equipment and probably know how. I searched the archives and found 2 names, Bill Mock & Arthur Gould. I have located Bill in the Driveline. Does anyone have phone number or e-mail for Arthur? Also in Driveline was Goat Hill. Anyone have dealings with Goat Hill? Any suggestions or comments appreciated. Thank You
Waterpump rebuild
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Re: Waterpump rebuild
Don-----
I strongly recommend that you entrust your waterpump to Bill Mock or Arthur Gould for rebuilding. Both of these have long-standing and outstanding reputations for competence and SERVICE. Unfortunately, numerous problems have been reported with Goat Hill.In Appreciation of John Hinckley- Top
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Re: Water pump rebuild
On the rear plate, the last mention of which style rear plate was used for SB water pumps in NCRS JG text is in the '56-57 book that calls out the flat style plate for both the '911 and '493 pumps. The JG books are silent on what was used from '58-62, but most originals I've pulled off scrap yard cars continued to use the flat plate.
The JG books call for BB pumps in the '65-67E era to use the flat plate and I've found original pumps for the era (some NOS service spares still in box) with both styles, but the preponderence having flat plates. This says the flat plate was alive and well (at least at Tonawanda) WELL into the 60's...
The stamped plate (reinforced edge) is obviously superior for holding its dimensions, but a freshly die cut flat plate DOES work (obviously--GM used this design for years!)...- Top
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Re: Waterpump rebuild
I just used Arthur Gould who turned my pump around in three days. It cost $65. I am happy with the work but after I mounted the pump I realized that the front pulley hub was not pressed back far enough on the shaft. Now my pulleys don't line up. I plan to post a message on this board asking for the correct dimensions so that I can instruct Gould to press the hub in further. To be fair, this was a replacement 609 pump that I found at a swap meet. It had never been mounted on the engine so I don't know if it had the correct distance in the first place. Regardless, I now have to take the blasted thing off again.
So, a word to the wise is to carefully measure the distance from the front of the hub to say the flange faces where they meet the engine block and be sure to provide that to Gould or whatever rebuilder you choose so that everything will line back up. There is no room for adjustment after the fact.
Mike- Top
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