C2:67 Turn Signal Switch on ebay

[Gerard F.]

Is this the correct turn signal switch for a 67:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/67-68-CORVETTE-CORVAIR-REPRO-TURN-SIGNAL-SWITCH-5698520_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ34206QQitemZ4640451255QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW

Part No. 5698520.

Any comments on the price.

Jerry Fuccillo
#42179

[Justin N.]

Re: C2:67 turn signal switch

Jerry,

That looks like the broken one I pulled out of my 67 coupe. I was told by another member that the original wasn't that red color as the one pictured. He thought that mine had been replaced before I purchased the car.

I used Shee-Mar for a new switch, which looked exactly like the one pictured on eBay. I'm sure that who supplied it. I rebuild my whole steering column from top to bottom and the Shee-Mar switch fit perfectly and had the Dark Brown Delco plug like original.

I missed an NOS one about two years ago from a GM dealer back East that was supposedly the last one on the GM computer search. I think it sold for about $75 with my discount.

Here's my invoice from Shee-Mar if you need to order one. I paid $52 including the shipping from Colorado. I think it's a link connect.

Justin #41362

[Kent K.]

Re: C2:67 Turn Signal Switch on ebay

Jerry ----
The ebay ad indicates the pictured item is not the one being sold. The seller has other parts --- looks like the same picture for Crovair as Corvette turn signal switch.
Kent #6201

[Joe R.]

Re: C2:67 Turn Signal Switch on ebay

Hi Jerry:

The 5698520 switch is correct for 1967, and the one shown in the photo appears to be an example of the GM part. However, note that the the one in the photo is NOT what is being offered for sale. What is being offered for sale is a new reproduction part that is not shown in the photo.

The 5698520 has been discontinued by GM for a while now, but NOS originals show up from time to time on ebay and typically sell for $300 or so. I was not aware of any aftermarket reproductions being available, but it looks like one is coming out now. Hopefully the reproduction will eventually be carried by the major Corvette parts suppliers.

By the way, the reason that most of these switches fail has to do with the way that GM implemented the "lane change" feature for 1967. This feature allows you to simply move the lever slightly to trigger the turn signal without latching it.

That works fine, but if you do move it all the way to the latched position, it latches in a way that resists manually returning it to the neutral position. It's okay if you let the steering wheel cam return it to neutral while executing a normal 90 degree turn, but if you try to manually move the lever back to neutral it places a great deal of stress on the latching mechanism and eventually breaks it. The latching mechanism uses a thin plastic arm that bends to engage the latch, and when this arm breaks it is virtually impossible to repair.

So, if you do manage to get a replacement unit, try to avoid using it in a way that requires manually returning the lever from the latched position to the neutral position. In practice, this means making sure that if you are only making a lane change or some other action that does not allow the steering wheel to cancel the turn signal, you should make sure that you don't push the lever all the way to the latched position.

[Wayne K.]

Thanks Joe, good to know this info.

Now I'm afraid to use my turn signal. Guess I'll roll down the window and start using hand signals.

Wayne

[Joe R.]

Re: Thanks Joe, good to know this info.

Just to be clear, there is no problem whatsoever if you allow the steering wheel cam to cancel the turn signal in the normal way. That puts very little stress on the mechanism.

The only thing that stresses the mechanism is when you push the lever into the latched position and then manually force it back to neutral. So, if you are just doing a lane change or some other operation that will not allow the steering wheel cam to cancel the turn signal, try to avoid pushing the lever into the latched position.

I'm sure that GM expected drivers to occasionally force the lever back manually, and their design does allow this. However, doing this puts a lot of stress on a thin, flexible plastic arm, and eventually the arm breaks. This is probably more likely to occur when the plastic is 40 years old and has lost some of its original elasticity, although in my view the basic design is flawed.

[Paul L.]

Thanks Joe - Pic

That happened to me. Good tip. I won't do it again.

[Gerard F.]

Could be my 67 dash, Paul

and the mileage is just about the same. I just went over 61k on my recent Flagstaff trip.

I'm bet my original signal switch looks the same as the one in your picture.
I did buy that one on ebay and am waiting for delivery.

Do you just take those three screws out to replace the switch. Is there any other difficulties in getting the wiring down the column?

Thanks for the picture.

Jerry Fuccillo
#42179

[Paul L.]

Re: Could be my 67 dash, Paul

SheeMar has over 1,000+ units in production. They were supposed to be available now but I have not heard from them. I have one on order.

I did that job about two years ago when the pic was taken. Not just the three screws. You basically just dismantle the whole steering column to get the wiring down. Perhaps a two-hour job.