No Start Condition

[Christopher R.]

Can't get my '62 to start after replacing the intake manifold. Lots of carb backfires, though, thoroughly intimidating me to stop trying and write this instead. That ether stuff catches fire easily. Real scarey when you're working alone.

I'd like to start eliminating conditions. It's getting gas. At least gas from the accelerator pump. I'm 90% sure the timing's close. I static timed the distributor on the #1 cylinder when the balancer timing mark was on TDC and both #1 cylinder pushrods were loose. How can I double check that?

I've got a repro coil. How can I test that? Can it be tested in place? Or, do I have to disconnect all the wires?

I also replaced the plug wires and distributor cap. But I've checked them 10 times. I suspect the coil, the Pertronix, or the timing.

I've got 12v on 1 side of the ballast resistor and 5 something on the other. The ballast resistor was tested quickly and with the all its connections in place. Don't believe the ballast resistor figures into this now because the Pertronix unit is getting a full 12v. The red wire for the Pertronix is connected to the 12v side of the ballast resistor. The black wire to the "-" coil terminal.

Because I'm working alone, it's easy to turn the ignition on and test things with a multi-meter. But I can't crank the engine to see what's happening at the #1 plug wire or the coil wire.

Backfiring through the carb says to me that the spark is screwed up. Either the timing's way off, maybe 180 degrees. Or, the spark is weak and erratic.

Any ideas on how to test components in order to eliminate them? Then I can replace what's left.

[Albert P.]

Re: No Start Condition

Try setting your static timing approx 10* btdc not at tdc

[Bob R.]

Re: No Start Condition

I'm certainly no expert but if your getting backfiring then you are getting spark and fuel. That means your coil and fuel lines are most likely ok. I think your districutor is the problem. It's either out 180 degrees or the wires are not in the proper firing order. I would slowley check it out. The firing order is noted on the top of the intake manifold. Check the AIM for the proper location of the number one wire.

[Roy B.]

Re: No Start Condition

Pull the Dist Turn 180% and try again.That's where I start first

[Kent K.]

Re: No Start Condition

Agree with Roy. Pull your distributor, turn the engine until #1 piston is TDC and reinsert the dist. Be sure #1 is TDC. Then set the timing. This happened on my '67 first time after restoration. Finally got it right and never looked back.
Kent #6201

[Christopher R.]

Re: No Start Condition

Thank you all. All of you were right. I didn't understand the concept of being out 180 degrees. Didn't realize that the harmonic balancer went around twice. I thought if you put it on the mark that you were at the #1 cylinder firing point. Gotta remember the 4 stroke goes around twice per firing.

"Walked" the distributor shaft around 180 from where it had been. Started instantly.

[Steven C.]

Re: No Start Condition

I'm confused...I thought both your pushrods were loose, indicating the compression/firing stroke at the outset.

180 degrees off of that situation would be exhaust stroke, wouldn't it? With the exhaust pushrod tight.

Steve

[Christopher R.]

Re: No Start Condition

That's what confused me too. I was not able to check for compression in the cylinder, so I took off the valve cover and checked the pushrods. Both had just a little slop in them. I was able to spin both by hand.

Maybe the mark on the balancer was slightly After Top Dead Center (ATDC). Right after the top of the exhaust stroke, what's the position of the 2 valves? The piston is just starting down on the intake stroke after exhausting the cylinder chamber. So the exhaust valve just closed, and the intake is starting to open. Is there a small overlap where both of them are closed???

[Timothy B.]

Re: No Start Condition

Chris,

If you did not fool with the valve adjustment then all you did was install the distributor wrong. No harm done and it looks like you've corrected it now. On the intake stroke the overlap is when the exhaust valve is still closing and the intake is opening thus both valves are open slightly at the same time. The only time both valves are closed is on the compression stroke from the time the intake closes (plug fires) to when the exhaust starts to open sometime at the bottom of the power stroke.