I finally installed the bushing in the damaged crank bushing bore using a reamer. The first attempt I probably was a little sloppy. The second attempt, I reamed the bushing before instlling and drove the bushing in a little and reamed, using the undistorted portion as a pilot hole. Repeated this a few times until the bushing was in. I know I should have taken it to a machine shop and fixed it properly, but I found myself without wheels last week. The only problem now is that I replaced the flywheel bolts along with the flywheel and clutch assembly and the new bolts stick through the crank flange just enough to rub the "tin" flywheel cover between the block and the bellhousing. It sounded terrible, and I tried to bend it away, I figiure in another 10 miles it will no longer be a problem. I am willing to sacrifice that tin instead of pulling everything apart again. It's good to have it on the road again after a year.
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Re: Pilot Bushing Finally Installed
Doug --- The flywheel-to-crank bolts on my '65 327 are just flush with the engine-side face of the crank flange; they don't project. And the clutch inspection cover (new GM replacement) on my 383 bellhousing is about 1/8" away from the outer circumference of the crank flange, so no contact is possible. I seem to remember that the previous cover (the original ?) was bent and did contact the flange, so maybe the revised design a new one will solve your problem (for under $ 10). -
Re: Pilot Bushing Finally Installed
I installed a new aftermarket flywheel and bolts. The combination of the two is probably why the bolts protrude. I also did install a new tin cover and I tried to bend it to get some clearance. Too bad I didn't notice the clearance problem while I was installing it. I hope it will wear it down quickly, at which point I 'll pull the lower cover and clean the metal filings. If it doesn't, I gues I'll get my sore butt back under the car and pull the cover and grind it down. I plan on buying another cover since this one appears to be sacrificial. I was wondering if there was a different type cover that would work since this isn't the first time that I have had one rub.Comment
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Re: Pilot Bushing Finally Installed
The best thing to do is replace the bolts - but if you want - hell - you can make your own cover out of aluminum or somesuch. - DaveComment
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Re: Pilot Bushing Finally Installed
Doug --- I don't know what bellhousing you are using, but if it is a C2 type, ie a 421 / 383 / 403, the flywheel dust cover is part # 3788422. Was that what you recently installed ? The dust cover is different for the larger bellhousings 621 and 444 (?) that accomodates the 14" dia. flywheel.Comment
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Re: Pilot Bushing Finally Installed
I looked at the part numbers last night and I think they are correct. The bell housing is casting No. 3779553 and the extension cover had the tag on it still and is part No. 3734908. I took off the cover and ground off about 1/4" radius and bent it so that the cover rests on the block not in between the block and the flange as is intended. With the bolts protruding, there was not enough room for the plate to fit between the block and the flange without rubbing.Comment
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Been There Too...
Doug -
I went through the same thing with my '57 270; used ARP flywheel bolts instead of the GM stuff (as I always do with flywheels/clutches), and they protruded through the front of the crank flange just enough to sound like the hammers of Hell when I started it for the first time - I just let it run (breaking in new cam, inspection cover cheaper than cam & lifters), and later on was able to bend the cover far enough forward to eliminate the contact. That was a year ago, no problem since.
JohnComment
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