While waiting for my trailing arm to return from the rebuilder I started to do some clean up on the rear end. I grabed the 1/2 shaft and pulled, unfortunately it came out. I am now looking at pulling the rear end. Other than trying to find a broken clip, what else should I do? Is it possible that it will be as simple as a new clip and fluid?
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Re: Rear End Problem
You need to look at the end of the stub axle to answer that question. The most common cause of what yu have desacribed is that the end of the shaft has worn off down to the groove that the clip is retained in and it will no longer retain. This will necessitate a new stub axle(s) plus a thorough rebuild of the rear end (those shavings went somewhere). If the groove is intact and the axlw end shows no significant were, then a clean/replacement of the spring clip may get you by. If you go this route, look carefully at the new spring clip. One edge where it sits in the groove will be sharp and the other more rounded. the sharp end must be located toward the inside of the differential, toward the short end of the splines. failure to watch this can cause the clip to become dislodged more easily. -
Re: Rear End Problem
Thanks for the reply. The stub axle did not appear to be worn. There was a square clean grove where the clip should be. Maybe I'll get luckyComment
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Re: Rear End Problem
Are you sure that there originally was a clip on the yoke? I have been running my BB 66 car 11 years without clips. It makes it easier to change yoke seals, etcetera. Because of the BB car rear sway bar, I don't worry about movement. If you don't know whether the clip was there, pull the other yoke. If it doesn't have a clip either, you may not need to do anything. - DaveComment
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Re: Rear End Problem
I did not look at the yoke on the other side yet. My car is a 63 w/o a sway bar. Judging from the amount of play in the rear wheel before I took it apart I would guess there should be a clip. I plan on getting out to the garage tonight. I need an excuse to pull the rear end to clean the area anyway.Comment
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Suspension considerations
Bear in mind that the half shaft is also the upper lateral link in the rear suspension and has to take both tension and compression loads. The anti-roll bar is not designed to take lateral loads. Just because it has worked for 11 years doesn't mean it's right. Sometimes the stories I read on this Board really make me cringe.
DukeComment
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Re: Suspension considerations
I agree with Duke, the car can get a mite dicy to drive without those clips. thaqt's why the orientation of the clip is so important, and also why the inside is subject to were. When the suspension upper link (ie drive axle) is loaded in cronering the inboard side is only held in place by the clip. The outboard side is pressed against the spider gear shaft, a much more secure surface. (But prone to wear over time)Comment
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Re: Rear End Problem
Gary-----
Even though the stub axle may not be worn down to the snap ring groove, that does not necessarily mean that it is serviceable. Without the snap rings in place, it's difficult to assess stub axle wear condition in the traditional way. So, if I were you, I carefully inspect the ends of the axles. There should be a very prominent 45 degree, or so, chamfer on the end. If the chamfer is worn off or nearly worn off, the stub axle will need to be replaced. Also, if upon inspecting the ends of the axle any significant wear is seen, I'd also suggest replacing it. You see, these axles are case hardened, not through-hardened. The actual thickness of the hardened material is, consequently, very thin. So, once the wear gets to a certain point, it accelerates rapidly in the softer core material. The center pin against which the axle ends rotate has a greater Rockwell hardness than the stub axles.In Appreciation of John HinckleyComment
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Re: Suspension considerations
Do the math Duke. With 195 75 r15 tires, the asphalt would need the coeffient of friction of fly paper to pop the yokes back. I have raced motocycles through the mountain roads of Montana with this set up, and all it ever cost me was a clutch. (And it was worth it!) Damn, I wish Montana haden't gone back to daytime speed limits. The round trip to Glacier Park puts more than 4000 miles on my car every summer. I flogged it through Colorado mountain passes and New Mexico Indian resevations. If the clips are necesssary for street tires, you can't prove it following my car. As a matter of fact, I'd rather have the yokes jump back a quarter of an inch if I hit a pothole while power sliding around curves - rather than have the clip snap off and get in my spider gears, I only ever used to break rear ends street racing in a straight line. (And that was worth it too!) - DaveComment
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Re: Rear End Problem
Just curious, how do you adjust the camber properly with that much movement? JohnComment
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Re: Rear End Problem
Get serious - with the weight of the car on the wheels, you'd have to hit a curb going sideways at 60 to get movement - at which point camber is the least of your worries. Also at that point, having the yoke jump would probably save the rear end from eating the clip flying through the gears. - DaveComment
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Re: Rear End Problem
Dave, I can't adjust my camber to less than about -1.5 because of the shaft movement. That value really looks "cool" and runs the "ramps" well, but it sure wears the inside tire tread quick.Comment
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Re: Rear End Problem
John, I probably misunderstood your original comment then. My 66 gets set as close to zero as the guage allows, with a nearly empty tank and 80 pounds of weight in the driver's seat. I selected 80 pounds arbitrarily to compensate for my 185 pounds and the fact that my wife rides with me about half the time. I level the car (left to right) with that weight in it, and then align the rear end. If your adjusters are broken, your strut bushings worn, or your yokes are worn to the point of the slinger rubbing on the housing, it's time for parts. - DaveComment
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