1960 WCFB Problems

[John Olcott]

The front WCFB on my 1960 270hp 283 is leaking gas and the car is running rough and will not maintain an idle. I am assuming that there is a stuck float or a leaky gasket and that the carb needs rebuilding. I do not have the ability to perform this function myself and my question is, who should I have perform the rebuild? Can any reputable shop rebuild the carb or am I better off finding a specialty shop somewhere in the country? Thanks

[Joe L.]

Re: 1960 WCFB Problems

John-----

If you are just after a functional rebuild, you may very well be able to find a carburetor repair shop locally that can handle this rebuild. The problem is that most of the carb technicians out there today, probably weren't even born yet when the last WCFB was installed on a production automobile. However, you may well be able to find a carb shop with some "old timers" who are familiar with the WCFB. Your local NCRS chapter folks might be a good resource to find such a shop in your area.

If you want a complete RESTORATION rather than just a functional rebuild, you're probably better off sending the unit to someone like Jerry Luck or Bob Kunz.

[Ted L.]

Re: 1960 WCFB Problems

John,

As we speak, my '60 WCFB is at Bob Kunz Automotive in St. Louis (314) 845-2566. He tells me that I wont see it again for 3 or 4 weeks, he's backed up a little. He quotes $200 for a functional rebuild and $300 for full restoration. I talked to him today, he says they will test it on an engine, then soak it in transmission fluid before he sends it back. That's to keep the accelerator pump from drying up in case it doesn't get put onto operation for a while. I got his name and high recommendation right here on the discussion board.

Good luck, Ted Lake

[Ed Jennings]

Re: 1960 WCFB Problems

John, If you just need your problem fixed, which might be as simple as a bit of trash in the float valve, any reputable carb shop should be able to handle it. If you want a complete restoration, then one of the specialty people would be indicated. If the problem occured more or less all at once, it is probably something pretty simple. If it occurred slowly over time or on start up after prolonged storage, then the problem may be more sinister. Even then, a good carb shop should be able to handle it. Here in the SE, it's around $100 for a regular carb shop to rebuild a 4 bbl carb. The WCFB's were widely used and the one on your dual setup is little different from the one off a Plymoth station wagon.

[Bill D.]

Re: 1960 WCFB Problems

If you decide to go the full restoration route, Jerry Luck does not work on Carters. He will recommend you call Dick Katter in VA @ (703)754-7547. He does the Carter restorations for many of the catalog dealers. Good luck! WB

[Jack H.]

Hum....

While Jerry's a great guy, lives close to and is rumored to have family who actually worked in the Carter plant, he draws the line on restoration with Holley/Q-Jet. Kuntz IS a prolific Carter 'dude', but so is our own Gary Hodges (see Team Leader list from any copy of Restorer).

Points here are well made, Joe! Is the end game functional operation or concours beauty AND performance? The bottom line is some restorers who engage in full dissasembly, replate, and rebuild wind up being as cheap as the local 'dudes' equipped with off-the-shelf rebuild kits and lack of specific knowledge who turn the crank by trial and error at $60-90/hour sucking your check book to learn the trade.... Plus, we won't mention the number of warranty returns you might make to a local shop who's skilled in carb rebuild generically but lacks a Carter specific learning curve.

Also, it's worth mentioning if this is a dual 4-Bbl application and both carbs have seen the same run time, the poster might be best off to bite the bullet and have both units done at the same time (car's down anyway) rather than penny pinch and wind up with asynchronous maintenance cycles....

[Jack H.]

Re: 1960 WCFB Problems

Dick IS good and I've sent more than one Carter his way! He also does his own plating, like Jerry Luck, so you're not looking at lengthy sub-contractor turn around delay(s). Also, Dick, like Jerry Luck, does a dynamic test upon completion of the rebuild/restoration so what leaves his shop is a known entity rather than a best guess effort with 'return to factory' warranty....

[John Olcott]

Found a Shop?

Talked to a local shop today who claims to have 50 years experience in carbs. ( That could be five guys/gals with 10 years experience each, I know.) He tells me that he has done many WCFB's and that he is very familiar with them. He also claims that if the carb is in by 8 am he will have it done by 5 pm. Does this sound plausible (this will be a functional rebuild)? I will try to ask around town as to his reputation.

[Ed Jennings]

Re: Found a Shop?

Sounds very plausable to me, particularily if he's not covered up. Again, depends on if you just want to get the carb functioning properly or if you want something more. He's probably going to boil the carb out, so it will come back clean. It may not, however have all the right colors in the right places, especially if it's already worn/stripped.

[James F.]

Re: Found a Shop?

John, I'd be inclined to give this guy a shot at it because he is local. If you are satified, you've found a local help. WCFB's are really very simple carbs. You stated in your first post that you were not able to rebuild it (I would have offered some suggestions had you not made your intensions known). I find that 2 X 4 BBL's are usually "unruley" when in idle mode. There are eight little round openings which are really hard to seal off the flow of air. Unwanted air flow effects the idle. I feel that anyone with a 2 X 4 engine really needs to learn to work and tune them. Otherwise they can be a pain. An ealy Chevrolet Service manual of the late '50's through the early '60's contains a rebuilding section (for sure the '58 manual has a chapter) The alternative is spending a lot of time in the service shop. Regards,

[g.r.rogers]

Re: Found a Shop?

John, if this guy is local he would be your best bet. I've been very lucky with a local carb builder here where I live. Before you take the carb or carbs home he has them tested and running on an engine outside his shop before your eyes. Can't ask for more than that. Local builders will usaully stand behind their work if you have any problems. My case if just pure luck the guy mounts the carbs runs them for you to your hearts desire and makes adjustments as necessary to your needs after they are overhauled/modified. Good luck GRR#33570

[John Olcott # 33092]

Re: Found a Shop?

Jim:

I am very open to learing about tuning the carbs. While not very experienced with engines I have great confidence in my mechanical abilities and have a strong desire to learn how to service my own car. What I really need is a good tutor. I bought the car last July and it ran great all year. I had it stored from Dec 15 to Feb 15 and have had it out for a drive about six times since February. It ran fine until last weekend when it suddenly started idling poorly and I noticed the gas leak from the carb. Maybe it does not need to be rebuilt? Any suggestions you have would be appreciated. I do have a copy of the ST-10, I will look at the carb section again. Thanks.

[Ed Jennings]

Re: Found a Shop?

John, Jim Frakes helped me a great deal with my 2X4 setup. I finally had to take one of the carbs to a local carb shop, simply because I didn't have the equipment necessary to do a proper cleaning job on some of the internal passages. I had essentially gotten both carbs rebuilt and running at least fairly well, (with Jim's help). The guy at the carb shop said all he did was boil out the carb and reassemble it exactly as I had it. After that, they both have run fine. If you can pull the top off your carb, which isn't very complicated, the problem may be real obvious. ie trash, needle valve fallen off etc.

[Ed Jennings]

addendum to above

The top can be removed from the carb, especially the front one, without removing it from the engine. IF the gadskets are not too dried out and brittle, there is s fair chance that it can even be reassembled without changing the gasket. If you decide to tackle it, you'll have to make this call when you get the top off. Rebuild kits are readily available from NAPA and a host of other local sources, as well as the catalog vendors.

[Juliet P.]

Reasonable for mechanical. Clueless for Cosmetic?

John, I'd certainly say that a full day to rebuild a carb is reasonable. And that's not because I have a lot of carb experience. I'm pointing it out because I'm on the other end of the spectrum, the brand new side of carb rebuilding. ;) My very first Q-jet in December rebuild took me about 3 hours to do. My second rebuild (different carb) took only about 1.5 hours. They both actually ran well too! Light years better than before the rebuilds. This was for mechanical rebuild only, and not any cosmetic recoating or restoration other than cleaning and removing the gunk buildup. Man alive, carb cleaner is the coolest stuff since sliced bread.

I'd imagine that someone which that kind of experience with rebuilding can certainly rebuild one far quicker than a green newbie like myself. I know my husband can rebuild a Q-jet in about 20 minutes. I've seen him do it, several times now! Of course he rebuilt his first Q-jet about 30 years ago, before he even could drive, but I digress....

The only other question I have is regarding carb restoration. I honestly haven't a clue what the restoring of the outer surfaces entails. Maybe someone in the know will post some info on that. Again, if the shop is setup to restore carbs too, as long as it's not an involved curing or drying time process I'd imagine that's within the realm of a day of elapsed time. :) Let us know how it goes! ~Juliet