Engine compartment detailing

[Pedro]

Hello All!

I'm replacing the heater core of my '74 (L-48, no AC), and I while I'm at it I would like to paint the heater box (engine side) and blower motor. What paint and color do you recommend? Primer?

I also would like to paint the valve covers and manifold. What is a good "chevy orange" paint? Do you use any kind of primer for this kind of job? I've heard about the benefits of "baking" the paint. I tried it once, and all I got were bubbles on the paint. Do you use this technique, and if you do, (1) how long should the part stay in the oven, (2) at what temperature, and (3), how long should it cure before it is put in the oven?

Thanks in advance!

Pedro.

[kenrobb]

Re: Engine compartment detailing

I have used several products for engine orange with good results. Need an oil free surface for any to work though. Eastwood sells some high temperature orange. I used VHT brand that some speed shops sell. They have a high temperature and a very high temperature paint. The very high temperature paint must be baked to cure and not be sticky. I used the high temp on engine manifold pan, etc. If there is a speed shop near you check with them as dragsters like to have pretty looking rigs also. You might check judging manual to see if the heater box is even painted. On some years the fiberglass box is natural.

[Pedro Teixeira]

Re: Engine compartment detailing

Thanks for your response! Do you use any primer under that high temp paint? As for the heater box, I also don't know it it's originally painted or not, but mine is, and it looks pretty bad now--must repaint it!

Thanks again,

Pedro.

[Jack H.]

Re: Engine compartment detailing

Sort of a question of how many angels can dance on the head of a pin.... The factory did NOT squander time/$$$ doing primer on low cosmetic surfaces (a la engine components) so the issue(s) are whether you're trying to be 'factory correct' or high quality/serious about the task. Items like valve covers do not see EXTREMELY high heat, so you can neglect the effects of the primer bubbling/warping due to heat and cracking/distorting the overlaid Chevy orange that's above. Any time you shoot primer onto an unpolished, rough, natural semi-porous surface, you'll save on final paint usage and wind up with a superior, better looking final finish. However, some might take the position (justified too) that valve covers painted with Chevy orange you can 'comb' your hair in are a form of over-restoration worthy of originality deduction(s) in a serious factory concours judging....

I, like Ken, think highly of the VHT brand of Chevy orange. I echo his advice about getting the surface clean and free of dirt/lint/grease before you shoot. AND I encourage several thin coats vs. a single thick heavy coat (even though that's how the factory really did it as evidenced by cracks, chips and uneven paint adhesion seen on BowTie/Survivor type un-restored cars). Issue here is, again, how religious do you want to get in duplicating factory original look and feel vs. having a nice appearance that will last?

On the issue of baking enamel, trick is modestly low heat for extended time. The factory was in a hurry and they probably did mini-max regression on just how short or 'optimum' of an interval this/that could 'soak' in the bake oven. In your case (home job), time is of little consequence so the 'lower' the elevated temp and the longer the bake cycle, the better the final job. Rule of thumb, consider inexpensive flood lights for big items that aren't conducive to traveling to the kitchen and sitting in the oven (makes peace with your wife to boot!). For things you can easily transport to the oven, set it on 'keep warm' setting (180-225F) and let 'er sit overnight. Last, be REAL careful when you remove the 'soaked' part from the oven as the paint has simply taken a tough skin as is still semi-fluid beneath. It's easy to 'squirm' finger or hand prints into the cosmetic surface when you remove the part from the bake or heat soak cycle. Take it out gingerly, and set aside to SLOWLY cool to room temp untouched. PS, this is a GREAT technique to use on valve cover bolts and tension plates!!! They'll resist wrench scaring well if the enamel is baked on....

Last, I think you'll find the Judging Guides are pretty clear on the fact that firewall heater box covers were NOT painted in the normal course of assy (there was always that occassional car pulled into a repair pit for fixing this/that) and should appear 'natural'.

To Ken: when Roy Sinor took office and officially changed the term from Judging Manual to Judging Guide to emphasize the fact these books are intended to SUPPLEMENT rather than replace the judges intrinsic knowledge, I'll bet I spent 2-3 months rehearsing as I drifted off to sleep -- Guide, Guide, Guide.... there are NO MANUALS anymore; Guide, Guide, Guide....

[Pedro]

Re: Engine compartment detailing

I'm leaning towards a nice appearance that will last, and not "factory-sloppy" looks. Anyway, your response has covered all bases--thanks a lot! I'll give VHT "home-baked" paint a try!

-Pedro