How do I fix this fiberglass crack? Its on the inside front drivers side wheel well on a 65
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Re: How do I fix this fiberglass crack
Quick fix I would use Lord Fusor #21 and just rough up crack. If you want to work for a while remove bonding strip, or fender,and then try to replace it factory original depending if their are other issues. I would do it with fix #1 as that product has never failed for me.
LyleLyle
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Re: How do I fix this fiberglass crack
If you could use a hack saw blade to work in the crack to open it up and rough it up. Then if you could pry it with a small sqrew driver and pack it with glue and pull the sqrew driver out.Comment
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Re: How do I fix this fiberglass crack
Jim I believe your picture shows where the upper surround panel is glued to inner fenderwell panel. It is a factory and is normal but I usually see it smeared over with bond.Hope this helps,RobertComment
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Re: How do I fix this fiberglass crack
Jim,
Try not to pry the crack apart. If you try to pry it apart to work in it, it will more than likely run further and be more difficult to fix. The left side of the crack many not run any more (because of the way it appears to be torn through the glass panel slightly) but that right side might try to run under past the fender well. That crack is probably from somebody laying across the fender with there body weight and buckling the lip of the hood surround or the nose of the car is not being supported correctly and it got leaned on
It looks like a fairly fresh crack so probably not much dirt and grease type stuff in it. Use anything that will rough up the surface without prying the crack apart too much. I would probably try some 40 or 80 grit wrapped around the end of a putty knife and start working it through the crack. Look for any loose bonding material and chip it out of there. Blow it out with clean compressed air (should be filtered).
That left side (if I am seeing things right) you should sand through or cut through the end of the crack. I suspect that because of the way it is broken and it is sort of holding the crack open a bit. I think if you look at it closely, you might find this to be true. It is hard for me to tell from the picture. But, I think if you make sure there is no partially torn fiberglass and bonding material in there, it will let the crack come back together.
Next thing to consider...After you clean the crack out, have someone lift up on the front right corner nose of the car and watch the crack. If the crack starts to close than the nose needs to be lifted slightly during the repair process.
If the car has a weak frame (from rust) or has been hit slightly and forced the car body to settle funny like, cracks can show up in funny places. But hopefully yours is just from either the front end not being supported or someone layed across the fender and it finally popped the seam.
Oh, I don't mind lord fussor except that it sets off too fast and I can't work with it long enough. I also don't think its texture resembles the original appearance. Depending on what product you use, it may not have the flexability. I have played with it in cold weather and the stuff I had shattered like cold tar in the winter time. I would use original formula bonding material. If you can't find it, let me know. Buy a quart can. Play with the hardener and you will get a feel for how fast it sets off. Rub it into the crack with a plastic spatula. WHEN I SAY RUB IT INTO THE CRACK, I MEAN RUB IT INTO THE GRAIN OF THE PLASTIC AND ANY BONDING MATERIAL THAT IS STILL IN THERE. Fiberglass is porous and you want a maximum bond strength. That is why you use 40 grit because it will open up that bonding surface to expose the microscoping fibers and pores. It will also give you boo-coo small microscopic angular surfaces to mechanically grab onto. Make sure your compressed air is clean (oil free!!). So, you should use a filter/trap on it. Without it, you are wasting your time on any repair. Clamping????? If you can't get the crack to come back together on it own I would rig something up to help push the crack back together while it is setting off/gluing. Because of its location, you could consider a couple of very small screws. I consider screws a last ditch option and use them only when absolutely needed. If I had too, I would rig up some kind of brace with a board angled up into the fender.
Neatness counts. Your fender is clean but I would wipe down the surrounding area of the crack lightly with lacqure thinner. Clean it up and get it dry and oil free. put some 2 inch wide masking tap around the area of the repair. Wear vinyl gloves. I go through vinyl gloves like crazy but there is nothing worse than getting all covered with glue and trying to wash the glue off when the repair needs your attention at that moment (time is a factor). I just peal off the gloves and put on another set. After you get the crack filled with glue, apply the brace and smash out the excess glue from the crack. This process is somewhat needed to get any air pockets out of the repair. Then, using your gloved hand, smear off the excess glue to your desired appearance. Remember, you tapped the surrounding area right up to the crack so it should save you a bunch of clean up time and possibly sanding time when it has set. Make sure it is all perfect before you walk away from the brace, etc. I would watch it closely for any movement for about an hour and then if nothing has moved, you are home free. Leave it alone for at least 24 hours. It should never crack there again.
Sorry if I over did this a bit. If you have any questions just drop me a line. Terry tfringo@aol.comComment
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Re: How do I fix this fiberglass crack
That is the seam between the hood ledge and the innerfender. It is not a crack that will spread or cause any real problem. Just force some bonding agent in there and finish with a swipe. Thats the way the factory did it.Comment
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Re: How do I fix this fiberglass crack
Thanks for the excellent posts. Would you recommend fiberglass resin for the repair?
It looks like the springs lost their tension over time due to rust and the previous owner hit a hard bump. The upper acorn rubber bushing on that side of the car was also crushed. The springs have been replace.
JIMComment
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