Engine number stamping

[Charles K.]

I am currently looking for a nice midyear. I have looked at two cars so far and have found that the engine number stampings are very different. One has very deep, clear numbers. The other was very light and much harder to read. Can anyone give me some advise as to how to determine if a block has been restamped.
Thank you
Charlie Krop

[Harmon C.]

Re: Engine number stamping

Charlie

The counterfiters do such a good job it takes a trained expert to tell the difference in pads if they are close to looking original. Even experts sometimes disagree. If you are paying big bucks for a midyear and the block needs to be the one installed at the factory to justify the cost it will be worth the money to hire the best expert. The original paperwork will help but it is made yesterday to look old today also. You could join NCRS or if a member attend regionals and chapter meets till you feel you know the difference in stamp pads.

Lyle

Lyle

[Charles K.]

Re: Engine number stamping

Thanks Lyle,
I am looking at a 64 300HP car. the numbers are reallly clean on the block. Also it has has side xhaust and I think it may need a clutch, also the left retractable headlight is way off center. Paint is fair but the rest of the body seems pretty straight and it runs well.Otherwise not a bad car. The price is 27K. It also has a factory hardtop. Do you think the price is fair?
thanks

[Bob R.]

Re: Engine number stamping

Get on ebay and check out what 64 cars similar to this are going for. I think you will find that any midyear corvette under $30,000.00 is hard to find regardless of the condition.
The side exhaust must have been added 64's did not have side exhaust. The suggestion offered above was good advice. Have someone familiar with 64's look over the car. Even if the numbers are matching there are still many things in the car that need a carefull inspection.
I would be supprised if all checks out but if it does $27,000 is a steal.

[Charles K.]

Re: Engine number stamping

Unfortunately I do not know anyone in my area with any Corvette expertise. Could you please give my some advise as to what would be majot issues to look for. What would be the biggest concern? I have experience with classic cars but not specific for Vettes.I did find it weird that the rear valence did not have the exhaust openings since it could not have been an original sidepipe car. The valence did not look like it had been messed with. There was written records for the car by the 3 owners. The carb I know is not original. The steering wheel does not line up and there is some slop in the steering. It is a basic 300 car with no options but it does pull strong.Thanks for all the help. I have been on many different forums and without a doubt the people on this one seem the most helpful.
Charlie

[Les Jacobs]

Re: Engine number stamping

Charlie It might not hurt to talk with prior owners, and see if they'll share work done, problems, originality, accidents etc. Check the archives for engine stampings, bonding strips (related to accidents, clip replacements), frame repair (ie rust buckets). Also , put it on your lift and go over the underside. Good Luck Les

[Rick A.]

Re: Engine number stamping

appears you are in Central NJ - there are NCRS folks in the Joosey area - hell, depending on where you are, Balmer isn't that far away!as was mentioned, get an NCRS member to go with you

[Don 42616]

Re: Engine number stamping

$27K is cheap unless car has major problems then you can easily double that. From your description it sounds like it has issues. It would not sell for $27 unless it did. It all depends how serious & reversable.You will need expert help in detirmining if drivetrain is truly orginal & all salvagable if need be.
If you are capable of doing resto yourself you are out parts only. Otherwise $80 per hour. Adds up. Thats why you need Not only a NCRS member to help inspect but also a one with knowledge of frame, mech., etc. Don

[William C.]

Re: Engine number stamping

If you are in the new jersey area, check the frame carefully for problems with rust! If you do not know the common locations to look, the ABSOLUTELY pay someone who is familiar with these cars to look at it with/for you. You are definately in a rustbelt zone, and issues with frames, windshield support structures and more are easy to miss.

[Charles K.]

Re: Engine number stamping

so would it be fair to say that the biggest risk is frame rust problems? I checked the frame carefully and it seems to be very solid.

[William C.]

Re: Engine number stamping

Risk is in the unknown. Are you familiar with the car to examine the body for major repairs, is the fiberglass original or replacement. The suggestion to check with previous owners of the car (if they cah be located) is very sound. The other question is what motivates you, love for the car? If so, have a good mechanic look at it and buy it if he approves. Investment? Look somewhere else. Restoration? Look a lot harder for a "correct" car than if you just want one to drive. All the decisions are open, you just really have to focus on what your goals are for you and the car.

[Joe R.]

Re: Engine number stamping

Hi Charles:

If your definition of "nice midyear" means that it should be a mostly original car with no major issues, I strongly recommend that you have an experienced NCRS judge inspect the car for you in person. There is simply no way for the members of this board to communicate all the important factors via written responses.

One way to proceed would be to go to the "Contacts" page on this site and locate the NCRS chapter in the area where the car is located. Call the chairman of that chapter and ask if there is a chapter member with significant judging experience who would be willing to look at the car for you.

Most chapters have a few senior judges who are willing to go look at a car for a nominal fee in the range of $100 to $500 (travel to distant locations can increase the cost). This will be the best money you could possibly spend to determine whether a given car is what it appears to be.

[Randy G.]

Re: Engine number stamping

Amen to all that.

The first C1 I bought turned out to be a cosmetic royal screwing. I paid a LOT of money for what I told was a numbers matching car. What would be the opposite of saying "LOL" be on the internet. Probably "FME."

First time shame on you...second time shame on me. The second one we paid an NCRS judge to look it over even though it came with Top Flight judging score sheets to back it up. Best money we ever spent. Great learning experience, too. My wife had a clipboard and pen in hand. She filled 3 pages with his comments as he made them while looking at the car up on a rack and down on the ground. I refer to those notes almost daily as I look for stuff for the car.

I'm a self proclaimed emotional buyer and sucker for a pretty car. I decided ahead of time to distance myself emotionally from the second car until we got the verdict from 'da judge.

I'll probably get buried in the first car before it'll ever be worth what I paid. Oh well, It's a beautiful car, anyway.

RG

[Rob M.]

Re: Engine number stamping

Charles,

Have a look in the Stampad Database (option in the right upper corner) on the C1, C2 and C3 registries to get a good idea what to look for. It will give you a good inside on the used fonts, spacing and depth of stamps and the variation during the 53 - 82 period.

C1: http://www.c1registry.com
C2: http://www.c2registry.org
C3: http://www.c3registry.org

greetings,
Rob.




C2 Stamp Pad Overview