new clutch

[Charles K.]

I was wondering if the engine needed to be pulled to change the clutch? How tough a job is it for a good but not great home mechanic?
Thanks

[Michael M.]

Re: new clutch

What year car? Typically, you can pull the transmission and bellhousing with the engine in the car which will give you access to the clutch and pressure plate. You may have to remove/move the shifter and/or shifter bracket and drop the driveshaft as well. It's a good time to resurface the flywheel if necessary, check for a worn clutch fork ball stud, worn clutch fork, etc. Also, you can check for a worn pilot bushing and make sure you replace your throwout bushing.

[Harry Sadlock]

Re: new clutch

I would initially say no unless bubba helped modify the car. What year and model do you have. How's about updating you profile with that info!

Harry

[lyndon sharpton]

Re: new clutch

if you have a lift it would be real nice. where you could stand up and drop the trans and not do it laying on your back. do you have a lift? do you have a friend with one? no you dont need to pull the engine.it is not that hard of job, just have all your tools that you will need ahead of time. you might need to send you flywheel off to be resurfaced if it needs it. you will need a clutch alinement tool when you go back with it. but you should be able to do it.

[Charles K.]

Re: new clutch

the car is a 1964 and I do have a lift

[lyndon sharpton]

Re: new clutch

well you got it made in the shade then! good luck.

[Ray C.]

Re: new clutch

You will need a stand to support the engine. I placed a piece of soft wood under the pan and used a screw jack stand.

Ray

[Mark B.]

Re: new clutch

Charles, I'm in the middle of putting a clutch in my 59 (did it to my 62 last year) and I do the following when the car is on the lift:

1. I pull the oil pan to get some good bearing surfaces for my 2 bottlejacks to hold up the back of the engine;
2. Using the sliding steel tray between the two drive-on ramps, I build a two-tier platform of 2 x 4's to raise and support the bottle jacks;
3. I locate the bottle jacks under the rear of the engine on both sides of the block in front of the flywheel;
4. I then use my screw-post (TPTools.com) to support the rear of the transmission;
5. Pump the bottlejacks up to just touch the block on either side;
6. Start dismantling all of the attached things like the driveshaft, starter, covers, etc.;
7. On my 59, I then unbolt the rear trans frame member and then dismantle the shifter and speedometer cable;
8. Before undoing the trans bolts, I modify two 3 to 4-inch long bolts cutting off their heads and slotting the end for a screwdriver;
9. Then I undo the top bolts at the bellhousing one at a time, and screw in the long bolts at least 3/4 inches. Once the long bolts are installed, I raise the bottle jacks to support the rear of the engine off of the screw post;
10. Undo the lower bolts and then slide the transmission back. THE TRANSMISSION IS HEAVY!!!....best to have a friend to help with disassembly and especially the re-install. The rest is straightforward and a reverse of previous steps. Good luck. (By the way, the flywheel is VERY HEAVY!!!! Watch your toes).

[Christopher R.]

Re: new clutch

It's a tough, but very do-able job. For when you were in your 20s or 30s. You could probably still learn and do it, especially with a lift. Sure, you can save a few hundred bucks. But do you want to bother? It's a straightforward job for a shop. Get some quotes from shops. You may be surprised at how little you'll save.

No matter who does it, make sure you get the flywheel resurfaced and replace the pilot bearing/bushing.

[Charles K.]

Re: new clutch

thanks for the info. does anyone have an idea what a fair price would be to have the clutch replaced?