63 C2 powerbrakes
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Re: 63 C2 powerbrakes
Sander, the vacuum hose is NOT connected directly to the intake manifold. We'll worry about the manifold later, just check the casting number and date.
The vacuum hose is connected to a brass "T" fitting that is in the back of the carburetor. One side of the "T" goes to the booster the other side to the PCV valve.
If you send me your email address, I'll send a picture.
Harry- Top
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Re: 63 C2 powerbrakes
If you have the stock can on the distributer for the vacuum, the problem was it was too little. The 63 brake Booster is a lot different then the power brakes of today... I actually think they are little squishy... Most 63 replaced the can to a 16 PSI can vice the 8....a lot has been written here about this, and I will let the subject matter experts chime in on this. Do you have a 63 brake booster or a later model? Is it the stock type or an aftermarket replacement?- Top
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Re: 63 C2 powerbrakes
Sander,
Congratulations on the new 63. Looks like a very nice car.
As far as brakes and their sensitivity, it's difficult to tell, in words, if there is actually a problem. The 63-64 Corvette drum brake system was actually designed for a much heavier passenger car so even without power assist, they were more than sufficient for the lighter Corvette. Adding a power booster made this setup almost too sensitive. Unless you are experiencing a near lock up condition on application, I would guess the system is operating normally. If the car has been stored in a humid envirenment, there could be some light surface rust on the drums that will cause the brakes to feel like their not operating properly.
The master cylinder and booster in your picture appear to be the correct configuration for 63, although it's difficult to tell without a tab number from the booster and the bore size cast into the master cyl.- Top
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Re: 63 C2 power brakes
Sander, I just remembered that there is an adjustment that I believe is unique to a 63. The plunger that comes out of the booster into the back of the master cylinder is adjustable. As I recall 1/4 inch, hold on, 1/2 CM will give you about a 2.5 CM adjustment is the brake pedal. The plunger can be turned with a small adjustable wrench.
Just remove the two nuts that attach the Master Cylinder(MC) to the booster, slide the MC away from the booster and support it so it does not flop around. Adjust the shaft (tighten to lower the pedal), reattach the MC. start the car and give it a test drive. It's a long process but it may fix your problem.
Harry- Top
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