69 stingray dome light switch

[Bryan K Adams]

Ok I know their has to be a way to get the switch out but its like a ship in a bottle. The switch is bigger then the hole. Its located in the bottom of the rear door piller. Does anyone know how to get this switch out?

[Harmon C.]

Re: 69 stingray dome light switch

Bryan
Unless the switch is different in 69 usally the wires are glued down under the carpet from the carpet glue and keeps the switch from pulling through the hole. You can also remove the four screws and the small plate from the number three body mount in front of the rear tire to see if bubba has been their and fixed the wireing.

Lyle

[Bryan K Adams]

Re: 69 stingray dome light switch

The switch is bad and yes bubba was in their and did his thing the wirering is burnt up. The slider is always in the closed position I believe the spring is bad. I opened the rear body mount and I can access it but the switch is larger then the hole.

[Harmon C.]

Re: 69 stingray dome light switch

Bryan
The switch back I know about is round white plastic and the round part will just fit thru the hole in the door frame threaded switch hole. All the wiring is attached to the end so the round part is no larger. Again I don't have a 69 but they may be the same.

Lyle

[Jim T.]

Re: 69 stingray dome light switch

Bryan the done light switch is located at the front door jams and if you had to view it, remove the kick panel either side. The rear switch you mention is for the factory alarm system optional for 1969 and the door ajar light.

[Jack H.]

Add-on

Plus, the rear switch that triggers door ajar and optional anti-theft alarm, is accessible by removing the rear body/frame mounting bolt cover in the rear wheel well(s). Both switches WILL extract through the tapped hole in the bird cage by CAREFULL wiggling and pulling on them, BUT you need to first disconnect the battery just in case Bubba's been in there before you and used something like electrical tape to fix damaged wiring insulation (causes the OD of the wires connected to the switch to increase presenting more of and interference fit as the wiring harness comes through the switch opening).

Last, remember these were 'smart' switches. Smart in that the their pluger shaft makes an interference fit into the threaded hex base of the switch. The factory installed them in their fresh, plunger fully extended configuration, then slammed the door shut. That caused the pluger to move/slide into the base and 'remember' the geometry specifics of that door.

To get an original switch (SX head marked switches are rather hard to come by) to work correctly, you should remove it, clamp the base in a vice and force the plunger back to its fully outward position before re-installing.