73 washer pump

[Gary Schisler]

Tonight I was helping my neighbor trouble shoot why his wipers work, but no more water than a dribble comes out. We tried one of the washer rebuild kits with the new back side O ring and the new black plactic three port nozzle. Still just a dribble. Then I took the delivery tubes, to the wipers, off and pressed the washer, assuming that perhaps the tubes were plugged. Nothing! Is it possible that the large black ring that seats on the plunger is bad? This plunger is the actual pump that siphons water from the reservoir and distributes it to the two nozzles. Apparently, this plunger is not normally rebuilt since there aren't any parts. However we took the plunger out to see what the seal looks like. It may be worn but since we don't have a new one to compare it to this is a judgement call. Does anyone know if this particular rubber ring is available? Any help here is appreciated. Thanks, Gary

[Robert C.]

Re: 73 washer pump

Try some petroleum jelly on the rubber ring and piston. the most important thing to do is make sure there is water right up to the pump. Also check the nozzels to make sure they are clear. Take a mouth full of water and blow the water into all the hoses, up to the pump and from the pump up to the nozzels. This primes the pump and gets it working. also check to see if the arm on the washer is pushing the piston in and out when someone turns on the washer.You did reconect the piston down into the hole, spring behind, with a half turn so that it locks into the shaft under considerable pressure.


Texas Chapter NCRS

[Gary Schisler]

Re: 73 washer pump

Thanks for the response. The hoses are new and flow freely with "mouth pressure" as do the nozzles themselves. We also see good movement of the arm that pushes and pulls on the piston itself. When we pulled the rubber ring off of the piston it had a very shallow, almost imperceptible depression in the center of the circumference, almost a very shallow "hour glass" shape to it. We know that the mechanism is working for the simple reason that we get a small amount of water on the first squirt or two. Almost as if we had a weak pump or blockage, the latter being eliminated by blowing water through all of the tubes. Gary

[Chuck G.]

Re: 73 washer pump

Hi Gary. Some of the 3 port replacement heads that I've seen are much smaller in ID than the originals...I'm talking a major difference. Had this problem with my 69. Got to looking at the original 3 head white piece compared to the white ones in the kits. I could barely blow air through the replacement white piece. It's worth checking. Hope this helps you out. Chuck

[Robert C.]

Re: 73 washer pump

Gary, the hour glass shape of the black washer ring on the piston is standard and correct. I have used a thick rubber O-ring in it's place on one of my pumps. The only other thing it could be are the small one-way rubber valves. If the valve plate is on backwards the pump will not pull water from the reservoir. The valves need to be pliable. You can take the ones out of a new fix-it kit obtained at auto parts store. The washer pump fix-it kits are cheap and they are made for 3-port pumps. Old rubber valves are hard and will not flex in and out as the pump works. I use the valves from the fix kit with my old plastic pieces. Just pull off the old valves and push on the new ones untill the little rubber bulb sticks through to hold in place. The 3 part "olympic o-ring" should be part of your fix kit also. You can use individual O-rings of the proper size. Lastly if the whole deal is not screwed together tightly air will spoil the vacuum. Many of the screws are striped in the plastic on old units (any one of the 4) You think it's tightening ,but it's not. I have wrapped the screw with tape so it would hold in tight. Good luck, Bob Cook


Texas Chapter NCRS

[Dave S.]

Re: 73 washer pump

I have found that soaking the rubber parts in hand lotion in lieu of vaseline petroleum jelly is much more effective. They become very pliable and most always work perfectly after treatment.