Here's the history. 270HP with 891 dist.(new points, cond.,rotor & cap), new ballast resistor, old coil. Beginning 3 months ago, while driving, the car will shut off. This may happen once or twice in a 20 mile drive and usually it won't happen at all.It always started right back up until today. Pulled into the driveway and shut it off to open the garage door and it wouldn't start. No spark from the coil. 12 volts to the ballast resistor. Check the neg. side of the coil with a test light hooked to a 12v source while cranking and the light goes off & on as it should (points are opening and closing). While thinking it must be a bad coil, I try to start it and it fires up and runs great. My question. Is it more likely for the ballast resistor or the coil to have an intermitant problem like this? I'm leaning towards replacing both and saying to heck with it. Thanks for your help. Jim
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Re: 1960 ignition problem
Temp rise under use may be getting to the coil, also what were the origin of the new distributor parts? I have seen some points/condensors for the dual points that I wouldn't use unless it was an emergency in the "Hecho en Mexico" stuff from AC Delco and others. I try to use NOS stuff if possible, as the points wer common with other GM cars of the 50's. Also check the dwell on each set of points.Bill Clupper #618 -
Betch'a a Cheeseburger it's the...
...ignition switch or an intermitent connection at the back of the ignition switch... Good LuckComment
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Re: Betch'a a Cheeseburger it's the...
Bill and Dennis, thanks for the replies. As far as the parts go,the points are Echlin (sp?)and I don't remember the brand of cap and rotor but all the parts have worked perfectly for the past year. Distributor was set-up on a dist. machine with no point bounce to 6500 RPM. Dwell and advance curve are right on.
I thought it could be the ing. switch (it has been replaced along with every wire in the car during the restoration) but if it was, I wouldn't have 12V at the ballast resistor. I've checked every connection and all are nice and tight.Wiggling the connector on the ign. switch didn't help.
I wouldn't think it would be a heat issue as it did this once when the motor wasn't even warm yet and when it does it hot, it starts again after less than 2 minutes. I hate intermittant problems!!!!!!
The only thing I didn't get a chance to check when it wouldn't start was the coil side of the ballast resisitor for voltage. By process of elimination I think I've narrowed it down to the coil or the ballast resistor.
I've never heard of a coil that would work fine 1 min. and quit the next and then work fine in another min. Maybe it could be a poor connection or a break inside/underneath the ballast resistor. I'm still open to ideas.Comment
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Just For Fun, The Cheeseburger Is Still On ...
... the line. Intermitent stuff brings out the best in diagnostic guys. Leave the shotguns at home... and, when you discover the answer, please share. DCComment
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Re: Betch'a a Cheeseburger it's the...
It cant be the ballast resistor, it's good or bad (coil wire if broken), But coils do strange things . I bet on the coil or condenser at the points is shorting out.Comment
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Re: Betch'a a Cheeseburger it's the...
Take a test light, stick it on the points wire side of the coil. Is it on? Crank the engine and see if the light flashes. If so, then everything is working and it should start.
That leaves you with some other electrical problem (condenser maybe?) or fuel.Comment
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Re: Betch'a a Cheeseburger it's the...
After more thought, you're right.If it was the ballast resistor, it would still start but die when the key is returned to the run position. So that leads me to the coil (it is the only old part in the whole ignition system). I'll certainly post what the problem is when/if I figure this one out. Thanks for everyone's suggestions. JimComment
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Re: Betch'a a Cheeseburger it's the...
The original coil on my 68 left me stranded and before that just some stalling. It actually started up and I drove it home when I came back for it after the walk home. The coil terminal that the resistor wire connects to was twisting in the coil. Replaced the coil and problem was fixed, still running points and the replacement coil.Comment
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Re: Betch'a a Cheeseburger it's the...
Dipstick is on to something here. Reach under the dash and check the temp of the ignition switch. If it's hot, you have a internal short causing the problem.
It happened to me on my 68 Olds.
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