C2 A-frame Dust Shields

[Pete Zietzke]

With the upper and lower control arms off of my '63 being refurbished, and with the inner fender skirts cleaned up and repainted, I'm now ready to install the A-frame dust shields.

How in the heck does one replace the stainless steel staples so the result looks as if it happened on purpose rather than looking like an accident?

To begin with, I attached the dust-shield to the fender well in the correct location using a bit of adhesive so as to keep the dust-shield in position. Then using a small drill bit, I drilled through the dust-shield in the places where the original staple holes are.

The next step should be easy! ... push a new staple through the fender well/dust-shield holes, and then ... try to bend over the staple tangs to match the original factory installed staple shape. Ya sure!! No way!!

So, as to not give up in frustration, I'm thinking of useing a Vice-Grip to securely clamp/grip the staple, then insert the staple (with Vice-Grip), firmly hold same in place, then bend over the exposed tangs from the inside of the wheel well.

But first, before using any more staples, I am asking for advice from members here that have actually accomplished this work and have achieved total success.

Obviously I'm missing something here in being able to perform this job ... ya, it is lack of experience from not understanding how to do it correctly.

Please help ...

Best Regards,

Pete

[Mike M.]

Re: C2 A-frame Dust Shields

after i've installed the staple thru the rubber and the inner fender fiberglass, i take a pair of old Snaop-on needle nose pliers and bend them over a side at a time. Snap-on no longer sells this particulat needle nose plier--i've tried to get another but no go. the sharper the point on the end of the needle nose pliers, the better the finished product looks. mike

[Joe C.]

Re: C2 A-frame Dust Shields

I agree with the above. Also can use a small hammer to bend the ends over that last little bit (while the pliers is still in place)to produce the desired bump in the staple end.

Also, you mentioned stainless steel staples. You know that the "correctamundo" staples are plain mild steel, not stainless. In addition to rusting nicely, they are also much easier to work with.

Joe

[Mike G.]

Re: C2 A-frame Dust Shields

Pete: To achieve factory appearance takes a little engineering, but it's not too bad and the results will have people scratching their head wondering how you did it.

First, forget the stainless wire. Get some of Doc Rebuild's mild steel wire.

The engineering part comes in next. You want to pre-form your staple, with not only the correct crown width but also the exact leg length. You want to be able to roll the legs over, using locking needle-nose pliers as Dr. Mike has said, and just have the leg ends meet without any need to trim. Takes a little trial and error to get the right dimension, but then you can pre-bend and pre-trim all your staples.

If you bend one leg at a time (vs. having 2 pairs of pliers and doing both simultaneously), you'll find it helpful to hold the opposite leg in place to keep it from being pulled back toward the engine compartment.

Also per Dr. Mike, using some very small diameter pliers will allow you to roll the wire over the pliers tip, acting as a forming mandrel, and give you the proper curvature on the staple leg. Nothing looks worse than staples which have just been hammered down flat.

[Pete Zietzke]

Re: C2 A-frame Dust Shields

Using mild steel wire is the way to go!!! Those darn stainless steel staples are a pain and almost impossible to use.

Using the advice offered here, I made up a few staples last evening and had them installed within twenty minutes ... they turned out very nicely.

Many thanks to those replying to this post ... I sincerely appreciate your instructions and suggestions.

Pete

[Gerard F.]

What do you use for the mild steel wire?

Pete,

Gage? Hardware store stuff?

Interested because I have to do the same thing here pretty soon.

Jerry Fuccillo
#42179

[Dick W.]

Re: What do you use for the mild steel wire?

Another option that I have used with sucess. I keep a roll of anealed mechanics wire, a very soft, easily formed product. A pair of 10" Klein (probably any brand would work) electricians pliers work as a form for the wire. Cut a piece of wire to length (I have forgotten the exact length, but is approximately 1") grip the wire in the center with the Klein's. Then you can bend the wire to from a staple. I drill the rubber and fender and install the staple. We use two hammers, one acting as a dolly on the top of the staple and one to tap the ends over. Sounds a lot harder than it really is.

[Pete Zietzke]

Re: What do you use for the mild steel wire?

Hi Jerry,

Wire o.d. = 0.038" from a 25-foot roll of wire I had picked up from ACE Hardware.

I'm not sure if it is mild steel or just plain iron wire ... either way, it is nice to work with as it bends easily.

I plan to fabricate a forming mandrel with my mill so as to insure each and every staple has the same crown width and leg length.

Thanks for asking.

Pete

[Jim L.]

Re: C2 A-frame Dust Shields

Did you remember to NOT have black paint under the dust shields to inner fender? cause black-out was done after shields were installed. For what it's worth.

jim