I'm working with '60 283 base engine with a temp gauge problem. I did a boiling water check of the new sender with the following results: 550 ohms @ 83*, 313 ohms @ 120*, 170 ohms @ 160*, 90 ohms @ 212*.
All the other data points fell right on the curve. I did a 50 ohm check of the gauge and it pegged at >240*.
When I operate the car, the gauge pegs at 240* although the thermostat hsg is 185* (180* thermostat) and the top of the radiator is 197* (all readings with an IR meter). I presume that this indicates that the engine temp is acceptable. Your posts indicate that you do not approve of adding resistance in the system but short of removing the sender and gauge for calibration, how do you get around this resistance difference problem?
It means that if the sender or gauge were ever replaced, the system requires recalibration. If I were to try a new sender, how would I know it to be any different in resistance vs temp than the one I have?
I took apart an old sender but I don't know how it functions with the spring and slug.
Thanks for any advice. Hal
All the other data points fell right on the curve. I did a 50 ohm check of the gauge and it pegged at >240*.
When I operate the car, the gauge pegs at 240* although the thermostat hsg is 185* (180* thermostat) and the top of the radiator is 197* (all readings with an IR meter). I presume that this indicates that the engine temp is acceptable. Your posts indicate that you do not approve of adding resistance in the system but short of removing the sender and gauge for calibration, how do you get around this resistance difference problem?
It means that if the sender or gauge were ever replaced, the system requires recalibration. If I were to try a new sender, how would I know it to be any different in resistance vs temp than the one I have?
I took apart an old sender but I don't know how it functions with the spring and slug.
Thanks for any advice. Hal
Comment