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I have to remove my instrument cluster in order to:
- check and possibly replace the temperature gauge.
- replace the speedo assembly.
I have the 1963 Shop manual where everything is described. According to it the mast jacket must be removed, too. Since I'm new to the active Corvette hobby I'd like to know:
- if there are any pitfalls I may encounter?
- if there are perhaps any tricks so that the mast jacket doesn't have to be removed completely?
- how many hours it may take for a rookie?
Thanks in advance.
the midyear clusters can be removed by simply loosening the steering col and letting it drop down enough to remove the cluster. biggest PITA is re-attaching the multiple light sockets to the cluster backside. mike
If you are doing it for the first time, make sure you draw a diagram of the back of the panel and put little tags on each of the connections you take off. Then key the tags to the position on the diagragm.
It makes it easier on your back, if you take the drivers seat out.
There is a pin between the collar on the steering column and the panel, so you have to drop the steering column enough to clear the pin and slide it to you.
Yes you have to rmove the mast jacket to slide the collar up to you.
There are other methods you will find with replacing the panel screws with allthread or removing the steering column, but I did just fine the first time with just loosening the steering column bracket under the dash and dropping it down. Just follow the manual. Should take about a half a day the first time.
Jerry Fuccillo
#42179
Jerry Fuccillo
1967 327/300 Convertible since 1968
Warning lights for partially opened headlight and emergency brake do not function. I have the incorrect oil pressure gauge ( 60# instead of the correct 80# )
should I plan on removing the entire cluster - or is their a way to "cheat" in attempting to correct these items. I am, at this point, most interested in replacing the oil pressur gauge - is it possible to do this without removing the cluster ?
If you have to change a gauge, it would be wise to pull the cluster. You could probably get the housing out for both the oil and temperature gauge,if you had eyes on your fingers. But I doubt any one could get it back in properly. If you are going to do the oil gauge, you might consider the temperature gauge also as well as the lenses.
The headlight and parking lamps can be changed without removing the cluster, they are a bear to do being all the way at the top. Make sure you have the correct bulbs for your year and tested. The 67 has a differences in the bulbs.
Jerry Fuccillo
#42179
Jerry Fuccillo
1967 327/300 Convertible since 1968
One trick I picked up from this site was to ease installation/repairs take several long bolts, cut the heads off of them, and thread them into the holes that hold the dash in place. You can then support the instrument cluster while replacing gauges, connecting cables, and attaches light bulbs and grounds. Works very well.
------There really is no method of cheating on this trip down repair lane. It even makes life a whole bunch easier if you pull the column completely out along with the seat. Im surprized no one has mentioned two lenghths of quarter/twenty rods about a foot long. Screw these in a couple of the holes vacated by the screws that hold the cluster in and slide the whole cluster down them when putting it back in. Believe me when I say that you will find other stuff to replace when you have the cluster out. For one; replace all the bulbs with new, not just the non-working ones. Do anything you can think of to keep from doing the job again as its a bit of a PITA, but not terrible. The last reason to go into it a bit more throughly is that you will have a way better understanding of the whole dash once you are done. We can talk you thru any sticky spots. Hope this helps.........Bill S
Thanks for the responses. My car had a frame off restoration about 3 years ago and all the bulbs/guages were replaced or reconditioned. The rest of the cluster instruments work and appear fine. However, with the dash out I know I should replace all the bulbs at that time.
No emergency or headlight warning light - the haven't worked since i got the car. I have a complete set of bulbs for my '65 roadster that I ordered from Electric Unltmd i believe ( the same place I got my set of T-3 headlights)
I'll probably wait until cool weather sets in in Indiana when i won't be driving the car as much. That way if I hit a major snag, I won't feel bad about not being able to drive the car if it's out of commission for awhile.
I'm compiling a list of repairs/replacements for this winter - so far:
Replace antenna
Replace oil guage and repair emergency brake/headlight warning dash lights
Replace water pump ( with NOS correct )
Replace fan clutch ( with NOS correct )
Repair hood/frame - separation of same cost me points in judging
Repair/Adjust emergency brake cable to proper tension
Replace starter ( with correct NOS part - 320)
Locate original rims and hub caps for judging to replace aftermarket K.O. rims
Replace day/night mirror ( currently have a '67 mirror)
That's the short list - I'm going to Carlisle in August - hoping not to break the bank finding correct parts !
If your headlight and brake light on the panel have never worked with new bulbs, you might trace down the circuit from the other end, such as the headlight limit switches and brake switch which energize the circuit.
Jerry Fuccillo
Jerry Fuccillo
1967 327/300 Convertible since 1968
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