1967 Alternator Numbers-Original?

[Paul L.]

The alternator on my 1967 is 1100693 7A25. (It is stamped 37 amp.) I believe that is January 25, 1967. The car is a non/AC, 327/300. Is it reasonable to assume that this is the original alternator for a 1967 with a build date of February 10, 1967?

BTW, despite my minor modifications, the deeper I get into this car the more it seems original aside from the engine block. Intriguing.

[Jack H.]

Re: 1967 Alternator Numbers-Original?

The '693 alternator was used on both SB and BB cars in '67 and only changed PN (rated amperage) when transistorized igntion and/or air conditioning options were present. The judging rule is dated parts preceed the car's build date by 0-6 months and the Jan 67 dated alternator fits your Feb 67 built car well.

[Gerard F.]

Here's mine Paul

7F16 (June 16) for a June 29, 1967 base engine convertible. Guaranteed original case and pulley, but with a 61 amp rotor and stator in it. Works like a charm.

Jerry Fuccillo
#42179

[Paul L.]

Re: Here's mine Paul

I enjoy NCRS as an observer. But what amazes me about this 1967 is that it is so original (with the parts in the basement) but I never get involved as the 327 is from a 1962 passenger car. Top end parts on the engine are just fine. Sometime in history the block just went south. But all else up top is A/OK/correct. Does NCRS have any sympathy for this type of car?

[John H.]

Re: Here's mine Paul

Paul -

I think you car looks terrific! The block won't get any points, but that only matters in judging, and there are plenty of terrific-looking Corvettes that don't get judged that turn heads, and yours is one of them

[Paul L.]

Re: Here's mine Paul

Thanks John. I am humbled by your comments. Yes it is a pretty if not correct car. Did a 40-mile trip today for my Wife's monthly visit to her Mother's resting place to take care of the flowers. Lot's of thumbs-up along the way. Even from the ricers. People love these cars. I love mine.

[Brian M.]

Re: Here's mine Paul

I agree Paul, I am not a green guy but your car is beautiful with that tan headrest interior. The torque thrust wheel put it over the edge.

[Paul L.]

Re: Here's mine Paul

Thanks Fellows/Gals,
I am always hesitant to post here because my car is not NCRS "right." But here is a pic from this morning when the Wife and I did a 40-mile trip before the summer heat set in. Love this car! Thanks for your + comments. Can't see this car ever being NCRS material but I very much admire your objectives.

[Kent K.]

Nice ride, Paul

If you research the archives, you'll find it possible to score NCRS Top Flight without the original engine. Find a block with the correct casting number and date within a few weeks (don't know about the pad), put your parts on it and slap her in. There may be other items I've missed but Go for it!!!
Regards, Kent #6201

[Roy B.]

Re: Here's mine Paul NCRS "right

Many NCRS RIGHT Corvette owners that Trailered them to meets wish they had a Corvette like your's that they could drive around and enjoy ,( all that money and time and afraid to drive them because of all that time and money), Mine is NOT all NCRS right ether because I to drive it. Dirt , oil leeks and scratches , just not a Q-tip guy!

[Joe R.]

Re: Here's mine Paul

Kent is correct, and you should make sure you understand how the points allocation works during judging. I believe that the 3892657 block casting was widely used in passenger cars as well as Corvettes. If you can find a 3892657 block with a casting date that preceeds your car's assembly date by less than 6 months, that will get you 262 of the available 350 points for the block, *regardless* of what appears on the pad. So, you lose 88 points for an incorrect pad, but you can lose a total of 270 points and still get Top Flight. In fact, if you drive to the judging event you get 45 bonus points for every 100 miles.

I would recommend against doing anything to change an incorrect pad, because restamping is a controversial topic and some people strongly oppose it. Just take the hit on the pad and try to make sure the rest of the car is good enough to still get Top Flight.

Even if you have no immediate plans to do this kind of transplant, you might want to keep an eye out for a suitable block and just store it for possible future use. In the meantime, have your car judged so you can learn from the experts just how close the rest of the car is to meeting the Top Flight threshold.

[Paul L.]

Re: Here's mine Paul

I have thought about this for some time. And lately with this thread. With respect to NCRS standards, I will stick with my NOM 327. The darn thing just never fails me. The thought, and expense, of finding and installing a nearly correct block does not appeal to me. So I will stick with a nice "driver". And just drive. My thanks for the comments.

[Gerard F.]

Re: Here's mine Paul

Paul,

I just got 720 points for driving to a Regional, made the difference between a high 2nd Flight and Top. Just wondering if an NOM would put you completely out, or is it just the points? How say the black hats?

With the looks of your car, maybe it's worth a try. Besides, if you are not expecting anything, it's actually fun. At least you will find out where you are at, and the 16 pages of score sheets will keep you busy for many months to come.

Also, wanted to ask you if you have the original 3810 carb on it. If so what date code.

Jerry Fuccillo
#42179

[Terry M.]

For the motor it is just the points

Drive to the meet and have fun.