Re: Fuel for 435hp engine

[Dick W.]

Your higher end racing fuels, unless stored in air tight containers, will go stale in a short time. The aromatics in the fuels flash off rather quick. I would buy some 2 1/2 gallon cans to ease the strain on your back

[Clem Z.]

correct the light ends go away very ouickly

also if stored in those plastic fuel jugs use the red ones not the opaqe white ones as the light will also effect the fuel

[Clem Z.]

if you think you need more octane check

the internet for a location of a station that sells 100 octane unleaded racing fuel. this stuff is street legal and can be pumped directly into your tank. i had a friend who was pumping race gas from a drum into a 5 gallon containers in his garage at his house. the fumes were blown under the door between the garage and the basement by the wind coming in the garage door. his wife was in the basement ironing next to the gas fired water heater and when the fumes got that far there was a explosion and his wife was fatally burned. i never keep any gasoline or even my gasoline power toys or lawn mowers in the bastment garage because you never know when these thing can spring a fuel leak. i have a yard barn just for this reason.pleas be careful pouring gasoline anyplace as mrs clem one boss died from a gasoline fire cause by fuel a running lawnmower.it is not the gasoline it is the fumes that ignite

[Erik S.]

Re: if you think you need more octane check

In the Netherlands they sell both 95 and 98 at every gas pump and for my 68 L71 I use both and I have never experienced any diffence whatsoever.

Erik

[Clem Z.]

don't they rate the octane level in europe

different than here in the good old USA ???

[Duke W.]

Re: if you think you need more octane check

Europe uses Research Octane number - what we used 30 years ago, so subtract 4-5 points to get the equivalent US Pump Octane Number which is the arithmetic average of RON and MON (Motor Octane Number).

Bottom line - European gasolines have about the same anti-knock characterisitcs as North American gasolines.

As I and others have stated many times before, you only need sufficient octane to prevent detonation. Any more is of no use. Actual as built CRs are about half a point lower than advertised, and SHP engines with late closing inlet valves have low dynamic compression and can handle more static compression than medium performance engines.

SBs with the LT-1 cam are being built with true static CR of 10.5 and run fine on 93 PON, but can't handle as aggressive a timing map as they could when new. The only adjustment usually required is initial timing of 10-12 instead of 14-16.

BBs have a slightly higher octane appetite and might require both a reduction in initial timing and a slowing of the centrifugal curve. If more octane is ultimately required, usually a blend of 100LL avgas or high octane leaded or unleaded race gas mixed with pump premium - no more than about 25 percent, is all that is needed; 100LL avgas is actually about 104-105 PON because the aviation method of octane number yields about the same number as MON.

Stay away from "octane booster". Their "points" are 0.1 octane, not 1.0 octane, so they are not cost effective in addition to the anecdotal evidence of fuel system corrosion.

Duke