C2 Holley 3367 rebuild q:

[Bob Psolka]

Preparing to rebuild the original 3367 583 for my 66 roadster, came with car when I bought it last winter and has been off-car in a box for 25 yrs. Carb seems complete and clean. L79 is otherwise original except for existing 4777. Rebuilding to stock specs for easy street driving, keeping original look so not interested in cosmetics, and also will replace holley pump with original rebuilt 40083, and replace lines.

use Holley kit 37-119 ?

What is difference between renew, trick, fast kits?

Any other parts beyond the kit that would need replacing or close inspection?

Any essential doc/books/links for rebuild and tuning? How helpful are the instructions that come with the kit and on holley.com?

How close to reality are these:

http://www.chevyhiperformance.com/techarticles/148_0208_holley_carburetor_repair

http://www.fordmuscle.com/archives/1999/12/holley/index.php

Any tips, traps, recommendations?

As always, thanks in advance
-BOB

[Joe C.]

Re: C2 Holley 3367 rebuild q:

Bob,

Good luck with your rebuild project, and nice to see another intrepid do-it-yourselfer! Recommend using only genuine Holley kits. You might already know that the castings generally strain with engine heat/fastener stresses. You might end up with a rebuilt carburetor with no external leaks, but with internal leaks which will cause poor driveability.

My advice would be to go ahead with the home rebuild, using a very aggressive solvent, like lacquer thinner or acetone. If the carburetor still performs poorly, then you might have to send it out to a reputable rebuilder, who will install new shaft bushings, and machine all mating surfaces flat-and-true.

Joe

[Rob A.]

Re: C2 Holley 3367 rebuild q:

Bob,

I had the same situation with my original #3367. I used the standard Holley renew kit available at most local performance or speed shops. I also wasn't concerned with cosmetics. It's fairly common for leaking where the "plugs" go into the bowls on the passenger side. If you have that problem, it can be fixed without removing the carb. Feel free to email me if that turns out to be a problem for you. Good luck...

[Gerard F.]

Re: C2 Holley 3367 rebuild q:

Bob,

That Ford Muscle Car article is pretty good, and get the book they recommend in the article. That's the one I use.

Usually the instructions in the kits are pretty minimal and generic. Try to stick with all original Holley Parts. The attachment below is a Comparison chart of all variable parts from the Holley parts manual for a 3810 versus other carbs (including the 3367):


If the part number is blank in the 3367 column, then look under the 3810 column and it would be the same part. If is not readable, email me and I'll send a cleaner copy.

If you have it down to the main body, check for warpage of the metering surfaces and base. If warped, you can probably take it to a shop to have the surfaces and base planed:


Also:
1. Use those blue gasket sets, they are very forgiving.
2. Stay away from the staged power valves which come the generic kits, use the holley spec for the power valves and jets.
3. Check all the little vents in the air horn and metering block for size and blockage. Blow them out. I found a couple on mine undrilled from the factory.

Have fun with the rebuild,

Jerry Fuccillo
#42179

[Rob A.]

Re: C2 Holley 3367 rebuild q:

Bob,

If you don't already have one, you'll need a clutch head screw driver for the secondary metering plate. There were some recent posts regarding where to find one.

[Bob Psolka]

Re: C2 Holley 3367 rebuild q:

just purchased:
37-119 Holley rebuild kit
135-4 Holley diaphram
HP473 Holley 4160 book by Urlich
another link:
www.bob2000.com/carb.htm