I'm at a point where I don't want to make any mistakes in my frame off and can make some changes easily.I have just viewed a couple of mid year vettes (66 & 67) in the middle of a frame off. They had the rear ends painted with a type of cast paint. It was almost silver in colour. Also the drive shafts and strut rod were done the same. It didn't look right. But they told me it was correct. It dosen't seem so if you read the judging guide. I had just finished painting my rear end and painted it with a cast paint and it is almost black or dark gray. The drive shaft,half shafts and strut rods I plan on using the same same cast as the rear end to give them a black or kind of gray look. Is there a better method to get a look as close as possible for the rear end,strut rods and drive shafts for a vette that will be driven on weekends and to shows. Any comments would be great. Thanks Mike
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Re: Cast Paint
Mike-----
I'm sure that everyone will have their own opinion on this but I'll provide my own.
First, in my opinion, there is NO way to restore the original finish of drive shaft or half shaft tube sections. These parts used an extruded tube and are practically impossible to return to anything like their original finish. You can have them "re-tubed" which involves removing the ends and welding in new tube sections of "fresh" extruded tube. However, then the "rusting process" will begin anew.
There are several ways to go with the cast and/or forged parts of the rear suspension, including the drive shaft and half shaft ends. First, you can bead-blast and coat with a thin application of a satin finish clear urethane. The clear will be detectable, though.
Second, you can bead blast, then "treat" the cast/forged surfaces with something like "Armor All". Apply several applications and wipe dry after each one. I've never used this method myself, but have heard many good reports on it. The problem is that you have to reapply it with some regularity. Since many of the rear suspension parts are not that easy to get at, this can be somewhat impractical for a driven car.
Third, you can bead blast and paint with a "cast-look" paint. My favorite is VHT Hi-Temperature Cast Iron spray. I think that it provides the most original looking finish. Of course, the paint will be detectable during judging but, in life, certain compromises have to be made. And, if you want your car to be something other than a "trailer queen", this might just be the time when a compromise is necessary.In Appreciation of John Hinckley -
Point Counterpoint....
The silvery finish that you saw is not cast but stainless paint.
Counterpoint to Uncle Joe's post, Pasti Kote makes a dark cast finish if applied correctly is almost undetectable, and blends in with the beaded metal. Just apply a very thin layer, like a mist, over the part, just once. If you apply multiple coats, then it looks like paint, but still better than rust or weekly WD-40 applications.
Even with the cast paint applied as described above, over time, the corrosion process will begin.
A full frame resto, I don't think that you will have to worry about the rust, as no doubt, your car will never see anything but the inside of a trailer, heated garage, and nice weather for judging.Comment
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Re ; Careful of Cast Blast
Cast-Blast paints, as they are called are not well liked on the judging field. If you aren't going to have the car judged, cast-blast it all.You won't have to worry about rust. If you are going to have the car judged, clean the rear end and leave it natural with a little clear-dull spray. The half shafts when new are real shinny and natural. You can wet sand them to a clean look , then polish them with alum. wheel polish. The rear end should look much darker than the half-shafts.You can always paint everything later, if you wish.
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