Some one asked, so this is a short run down I did back in 89 if interested questions? , I did classes years ago.( See second post also) I dont know how to put both on at the same time
Body Fit
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Re: Body Fit
Roy,
Great article and information. I'm having trouble capturing the information to my desktop. Where was the article published? I'd like to get a copy.
Thanks, Ken- Top
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Re: Body Fit
Roy, Thanks for the very useful information. I don't know if my experience is unique but I had the task of securing a 60 body on a 58 frame. The differing years, I don't believe, should have made a difference, but I found that adding shims did not have an effect on the door spacing. So, I just proceeded to glass the doors and trunk lid to make the seams more uniform. And, after hours of adjusting the doors, I still have one door with a front lower corner that is not perfectly aligned. Richard- Top
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Re: Body Fit Richard
The stress points when lifting the front (shims) is the lower front body area below the door ,and lifting the rear (shims)body area is the same below the rear door area.this was done at the plant, that is why you some times have a door LINE lower area skin looking like it's not in line with the body ( usually a door lower rear area sticks out) sure you've seen this on many C1 Corvettes at the door rear area and it's do to body under stress. Restoring body guys usually build that body area out to meet the door line because there is no other fix. If nothing can be done to close the door, trunk or hood lines using SHIMS it's best not to extent those panels but to build the body out to close the lines. ( it's stronger and easy -where if the door or trunk line is extended it will crack through the paint over time, you've probably see that ). Hope you understand what I'm trying to say?- Top
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