C2 66 power feed to fuse block

[Randy S.]

This has been discussed before but I am not able to locate it it the archives.

The main power feed to the fuse block is a #12 red wire entering thru the bulkead connectors. This connection is unreliable, especially on C60 cars, like mine, due to the higher amperage thru the connector. (61 Amp alternator and 12 gauge wire?)

I recall this can be bypassed by splicing around the connector but I am not able to determine where the interior side of the #12 wire is. Does it terminate on the buss bar?

From UPC 12 D2 it looks like I need to splice into the #12 red wire exiting from the top of the fuse block.

Would appreciate hearing from someone who has done this.

Randy

[William C.]

Re: C2 66 power feed to fuse block

The 12 ga red runs into the wiring harness then to a splice and from there to a number of places including the mail fuseblock feed. if you seperate the fuseblock from the pass-thru connector you will find it readilt as it runs from the pass thru connector into the harness main bundle

[Kevin M.]

Re: C2 66 power feed to fuse block

If I remember I ran a hot from the horn relay into the car and connected it to the breaker above the driver side kick panel. I didn't like the idea of splicing. This is about the 7th post I've seen since mine failed about 6 months ago must be the end of the life spand for those connections.

Kevin

[William C.]

Re: C2 66 power feed to fuse block

Just as an aside, GM knew this was a high current load application, the original terminal used in Production was a Berylium-Copper allow for good high-temperature performance, with A silver plating to reduce heat loss by lowering the resistance at the contact point.

[Wayne W.]

Re: C2 66 power feed to fuse block

With all due respects to you former GM ers. Bill, your guys blew that one big time. Unfortunately they havent learned a thing in 40 years. They are still doing this crap today. Go look at a real 40-60 amp connector and you will see that this thing couldnt handle any better than 10 amps or so. They failed very shortly, especially on C60 cars. Thats why I have all ways called the condition "Air Car Itis". As for the fix, If you take out the guts of the connector, and run a large wire through that position tying it to the existing wire on both sides, you can totally disguise the repair. Just fold the extra length of wire back and tape.

[George C.]

Re: C2 66 power feed to fuse block

And another solution; I used a male and female crimp on connector. I put the female connector on the wire in the fuse block connector, and the male in the connector in the engine compartment. Now I can unplug the connector if I need to without any complications.

George

[Randy S.]

Good info thanks to all *NM*