Stuff to Bond Hood Skin to Its Frame-1965

[Joe C.]

I remember a thread awhile back, where something called "gumdrop adhesive" was recommended. It is an orange adhesive that does not cure rock-hard, but retains a good amount of flexibility. Does anybody know the non-generic name for the stuff, and have any more details on where to get it. I have called around a few body-shop supply houses in my area, and have been told to use bonding adhesive. Wronnnnnnng!!
Yesterday, I intentionally broke all of the bonds which I had initially done with bonding adhesive. Why? Because the rigid bonds set up stresses in the paint which result in the outline of the bonded area to be transmitted to the surface of the paint! This is not good for flat surfaces painted in black BC/CC. The outline can be removed with light wet sanding/polishing, but only returns in a few weeks. After the third go-round, I figured GM knew something that I didn't know, so I'll use a non-rigid bond.
Thanks in advance.

Joe

[Tracy C.]

Re: Stuff to Bond Hood Skin to Its Frame-1965

I think what you're looking for is 3M black strip caulk. This only goes out on the tabs near the middle of the hood. The perimeter of the hood frame is still bonded to the hood skin with bond adhesive.

tc

[Michael H.]

John Hinckley Posted Info On This.....

...several months ago. Seems the 65-66 hoods were indeed "stuck together" with some sort of goo that never dried. (or held) He refered to it as gum drops because that's what the line workers at the steel car plants called it. I believe he was refering to body caulk of some sort but we better wait till he sees this and gives the correct info.

My 66 hood reinf was loose also and I spent a day cleaning/rebonding. It lasted about a month.

[Joe C.]

Re: John Hinckley Posted Info On This.....

Michael,

I would not recommend bonding with polyester bonding adhesive if you have a dark car and a super smooth paint job. It will hold tight forever but messes with the surface of the paint. I know..........what about the rest of the bonds on the car, like the deck lid, cowl bonds etc. I can only guess that the extra vibration and engine heat causes this phenomenon on the hood only!

It hurt badly to take a hammer and wood chisel to those beautiful, perfectly blacked-out underhood bonds, but I am getting tired of wet sanding and buffing!!

Regards,
Joe

[Anthony F.]

[Michael H.]

Re: John Hinckley Posted Info On This.....

I don't know the answer Joe. I know 63-64 hoods were bonded normally and we almost never see one that has come loose. Also, there's never any visible shrinkage at these locations on the upper surfaceon 63-64, that I'm aware of. For 65, things changed and just about every 65-66 hood you see has come loose from it's reinf. This includes 65 and 66 big block hoods as well. I gave up on mine and now I just lift the hood from the center instead of at the outer corner to prevent the twist that pop's these joints loose. Should have used super glue I suppose.

[Gerard F.]

Try Dap Polyurethane Roof and Flashing

Adhesive. Cures to a flexible but hard black rubber and sticks to anything (even glass). And you don't have to re-blackout.


See this thread:


The underside of the hood in the picture was just cleaned for the first time with Simple Green.

Jerry Fuccillo
#42179

[Kent D.]

Re: Stuff to Bond Hood Skin to Its Frame-1965

I used 3-M windshield bedding on my '66 hood cross braces. It's black and stays flexable.

[Dave K.]

Re: Stuff to Bond Hood Skin to Its Frame-1965

Isn't the 3M windshield bedding a black strip caulk somewhat like the 3M dum dum but more stiff and less flexible? If so, it does not seem to provide much in the way of bonding properties but more for sealing. I would think that you need some thing that has better bonding properties like Corvette Fiberglass and Panel Adhesive.

Regards,
Dave K.

[Kent D.]

Re: Stuff to Bond Hood Skin to Its Frame-1965

You do not want to bond the cross brace just use something that will flex but hold the center of the hood from vibrating.

[Wayne W.]

Re: Stuff to Bond Hood Skin to Its Frame-1965

I dont know what it is called, but the metal building people use a strip calk that has the consistancy of sily pudy and is non hardning. It does have an adhesive property about it also. I havent tried it and dont know if it will bleed through, but it looks like a good candidate.

[Ken Robb]

Re: Stuff to Bond Hood Skin to Its Frame-1965

My 65 hood came loose several years ago. I took the inner part completely loose. I used a 100% solids epoxy putty and glues the entire asembly back together. There was on heat or such to distort the hood. It wasn't smooth from the factory either! This putty is used in liners for gasoline storage tanks. You want a material that will "glue" the assembly together. Some of the fore mentioned caulks won't glued the members together with the vibration of the car. One material that comes to mind is JB weld Epoxy. It might take several tubes of the stuff to entirely glue the hood together though. Another is the polyester resin used in boat repairs. I would see if any boat repair places near you and ask them. I have enough epoxy material in 2 one gallons cans to probably glue 50 hoods together, but now way to distribute it.