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From what I have been able to ascertain, all hoods were bonded to the inner frame with ordinary bonding adhesive, except for 1965-66, when the "gumdrop adhesive" was used. I can attest to the "gumdrop", because, when I restored my 1965, the hood was completely delaminated from the inner, and a sticky orange compound had to be scraped and washed out of all of the bonding tabs. Once clean, I bonded the tabs with bonding adhesive, which held fast, but marred the paint. This leads to the question; "Why was "gumdrop" adhesive used for 1965-66, instead of bonding adhesive? Was it because of the problem that I have described? The 63-64 hoods had configurations that would serve to hide any "bond line readout", and so the flatter hoods used for 1965 required a different adhesive. Maybe I am giving the General too much credit here. Maybe it was some sort of economic consideration.........I don't know. The fact is, that GM reverted to using bonding adhesive for 1967 because many of the hoods (1965-66) bonded with the "gumdrop" have had multiple failed bonds.
A few words for some who responded to my post below:
TRACY......Dum-dum, which can be bought as 3M Strip Caulk, and other brands, has no shear strength, nor tensile strength. It was used as a general purpose gap filler for many midyear Corvette applications, but NOT as an adhesive.
DAVE.....3M windshield adhesive is a urethane based, VERY quick setting adhesive/sealant which sells for about $16.00/tube, and must be applied with a caulking gun. It has excellent strength and flexability. I am not certain as to its heat resistance, but is my second choice as a solution for my application. It is an entirely different material from the 3M Strip Caulk.
WAYNE/TONY......the MOST important consideration, other than shear strength, is finding a material that will not bleed through!!! Also must have decent resistance to cracking and drying out from the engine's heat.
KENT.......is there a valid reason WHY you state that the hood must not be bonded to the skin, but must flex. I think that you are on the right track, but why do you say this?
Gerry.......I don't know how an old Queens guy like you can be so sharp, but the stuff that you used is this Brooklyn guy's first choice as a solution to my problem. It is a polyurethane based adhesive/caulk, and relatively cheap, at about 5 bucks/tube. It has a medium-slow cure time. I used the stuff to seal EVERY crevice/seam on my Corvette's birdcage before body reassembly, in lieu of the dum-dum shown in the AIM. Also used it between all of the "steels" riveted to the floorpan. I also used it to fill other voids where no caulk was called for. I figure that if my car was in NOLA last year, it would have floated better than a Boston Whaler! My question to you is, WHAT MADE YOU USE THIS PRODUCT, AND NOT THE OBVIOUS BONDING ADHESIVE. Also, you should remove the screwdriver which somebody jammed into your right front fender?
Regards to all,
Joe
A few words for some who responded to my post below:
TRACY......Dum-dum, which can be bought as 3M Strip Caulk, and other brands, has no shear strength, nor tensile strength. It was used as a general purpose gap filler for many midyear Corvette applications, but NOT as an adhesive.
DAVE.....3M windshield adhesive is a urethane based, VERY quick setting adhesive/sealant which sells for about $16.00/tube, and must be applied with a caulking gun. It has excellent strength and flexability. I am not certain as to its heat resistance, but is my second choice as a solution for my application. It is an entirely different material from the 3M Strip Caulk.
WAYNE/TONY......the MOST important consideration, other than shear strength, is finding a material that will not bleed through!!! Also must have decent resistance to cracking and drying out from the engine's heat.
KENT.......is there a valid reason WHY you state that the hood must not be bonded to the skin, but must flex. I think that you are on the right track, but why do you say this?
Gerry.......I don't know how an old Queens guy like you can be so sharp, but the stuff that you used is this Brooklyn guy's first choice as a solution to my problem. It is a polyurethane based adhesive/caulk, and relatively cheap, at about 5 bucks/tube. It has a medium-slow cure time. I used the stuff to seal EVERY crevice/seam on my Corvette's birdcage before body reassembly, in lieu of the dum-dum shown in the AIM. Also used it between all of the "steels" riveted to the floorpan. I also used it to fill other voids where no caulk was called for. I figure that if my car was in NOLA last year, it would have floated better than a Boston Whaler! My question to you is, WHAT MADE YOU USE THIS PRODUCT, AND NOT THE OBVIOUS BONDING ADHESIVE. Also, you should remove the screwdriver which somebody jammed into your right front fender?
Regards to all,
Joe
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