The one's I have are faded and the black has worn off in a few spots. I'd like them to be perfect of course. Anyone want to share some tips on painting these.
Thanks
Thanks
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Re: Has anyone ever painted the black on rally cap
Clean the surface to be painted. Spray with a self-etchant paint (you need this for the paint to 'bite' and adhere or it'll flake off when you wash the car). SEM has a nice selection of self-etchant primer paints in spray cans that are so close to the factory original black accent paint, you don't need to coat with anything else.
As SOON as you've sprayed the paint on, have a cloth soaked with lacquer remover ready. Stretch it to form a plane and wipe off the excess overspray on the upper surface leaving the still wet/drying paint in the recessed areas. You're done! -
Re: Has anyone ever painted the black on rally cap
Jack------
Yes, that method works for the ORNAMENT component of the caps. However, it doesn't work for the black-painted "vanes" which surround the main body of the cap. It's that area that's usually in the most need of restoration/repainting.
I believe that the manufacturing plant must have used some sort of specially configured "mask" to shield the areas to remain natural stainless prior to painting. If one had that "mask" or could make one, the repainting of the "vanes" would be easy. Without it, the only way I know to do it is by the very tedious application of masking tape to each wheel cap.In Appreciation of John HinckleyComment
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Re: Has anyone ever painted the black on rally cap
If you are talking about a cap like on a '68 a special mask was used at the supplier. Best you can do here is to use the correct width masking tape and do each fin and surrounding area.Comment
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What's wrong with Jack's idea about wiping
the vanes clean after you spray them with the paint? And does anyone know where to get the SEM primer paint he mentioned?
Thanks for all your answers!Comment
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Re: What's wrong with Jack's idea about wiping
George-----
There's nothing wrong with it; it's exactly the same method that I use. However, it works only for the ORNAMENT. It will not work for the black-painted "vanes" on the main body of the cap. If all you are interested in restoring is the lettering, etc. on the face of the ORNAMENT, then you have the method. If you want to restore the black-painted "vanes", that's another matter.In Appreciation of John HinckleyComment
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Re: What's wrong with Jack's idea about wiping
You could never get a straight, even lines on each raised vane. Maybe someone could, but I couldn't.Comment
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Re: What's wrong with Jack's idea about wiping
Most automotive paint distributors stock SEM plus Eastwood carries it in their catalog.
Yes, on the accent paint between the outer flukes, masking tape is the answer. No need to explain because that's obvious--there's no surface height differential and the only way you'll get a crisp straight parting line is with a mask.
Same goes for the 'pie wedges' on '65-66 full wheel covers. However, there you have to do a 2-coat job (self-etchant primer, followed by the cast iron finish color). Those are even tougher to mask because you're making a curvilinear outline!!!Comment
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Re: What's wrong with Jack's idea about wiping
I have used the wipe of technique before. It has worked for me but occassionally something happens and I have to strip and start over. I use masking tape and plenty of spare time. I usually get good results. Another technigue I use is to let it dry and then wipe with lacqure thinner or sometimes I use a mild rubbing compound. I have had great success with rubbing compound on restoring shifter consoles.
I always wondered about the etching primer. But, do you think they used that sort of stuff at the factory?? I always wonder about painting the chrome on shifter bezels. Paint has no grip on it?? I notice this new stuff called adhesion promoter. I wonder if it would aid in making paint stick better on chrome?
TerryComment
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Re: What's wrong with Jack's idea about wiping
Jack-----
There IS a surface height differential; the painted area is "recessed" between the "ribs". It would be very easy for someone to draw the conclusion that the method that you initially described applied to both the "vanes" as well as the ornament. However, I'd like to see someone use the "paint-and-wipe" method to do the "vanes".
Actually, though, it might be possible; I've thought about trying this for a long time but I've never got around to it. To use this method one would need to carefully apply a paint release agent to the tops of the ribs and then mask off the ends with tape (very easy). Next, apply the paint and LET IT DRY. Last, wipe off the dried paint on the ribs. Chassis grease might work as an effective "release agent".In Appreciation of John HinckleyComment
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Re: What's wrong with Jack's idea about wiping
Terry-----
I don't know if the manufacturing plant for the caps used a self-etching primer, or not. I would expect that they did not since that would have added a lot of time to the painting operation. However, they definitely must have used a special paint with some sort of included "adhesion promoter". Chrome is a difficult surface to paint with good adhesion under any circumstances. For the most part, the paint on these caps has held up amazingly well with respect to adhesion.
As far as the "paint-and-wipe" method on the vanes, I could see how it might work if one spent a lot of time very carefully wiping each "rib" after applying the paint. It would seem very tedious to me, though. Better would be the technique you described of cleaning the paint off AFTER it dried with lacquer thinner OR the method that I described below using a "release agent" to make the dried paint easy to wipe off without harming the paint you want to remain on.In Appreciation of John HinckleyComment
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Re: What's wrong with Jack's idea about wiping
Yes, I have heard of that stuff that you apply to an area and then it alows you to wipe the paint off. Never tried it though.
Off the subject...would you know if 67 427/390hp exhaust push rods are the same as used in 68 390hp? Any good or better alternatives to replacing my push rods on my engine at rebuild? TerryComment
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Re: What's wrong with Jack's idea about wiping
Hi All
I have painted many ralley caps the quickest and most reliable way is to paint the high hat without any masking. I use Krylon 1613 semi flat. Let it dry to a hard finish. Hours to acouple of days depending on the weather in the area. After it drys take a box cutter with a new blade and pull the sharp edge of the blade toward you on each raised portion. The paint will scrape off and will not harm the chrome by using the sharp edge of the blade and pulling toward yourself. Put masking tape around the top of the hat and paint the letters. When it dries use Brake Clean to wipe off the excess paint as the Br cln is not as strong as laquer thinner. I have done many in this manner and it works quite well.
Jim LuciaComment
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Re: What's wrong with Jack's idea about wiping
Terry-----
Well, it turns out that the push rod question is a little complicated. Here's the deal: EARLY 1967 L-36 used 3/8" OD, 1010 steel pushrod. I believe that these pushrods were of welded ball design, but I'm not 100% sure of this point.
Later 1967 L-36 used 5/16" OD, 1010 steel pushrods. These pushrods were of "1 piece" design. These same pushrods were used for all 1968 L-36.
So, if you have a good set of ANY of the pushrods used for 1967 (3/8" or 5/16") they will work just fine for a 1968 L-36. You don't need to change guideplates, either, regardless of which pushrod you use as both pushrods used the same GM #3860038 guideplates.
Personally, I don't really like 5/16" pushrods in a big block, but they are quite adequate for an L-36 and, likely, most street big blocks, for that matter.
GM does not currently offer a pushrod kit for 65-91 Mark IV big blocks. So, you have to buy the pushrods by the PER EACH. That gets real expensive for 16 pushrods required (8 intake + 8 exhaust). However, you can obtain an aftermarket set of pushrods that are better than GM for a very economical price. For example, you can obtain a set of 3/8" OD, 1010 steel, welded ball pushrods (which are equivalent to the 65-66, E67, and all 67-71 SHP pushrods) manufactured by Com Cams under their p/n 7854-16. Summit sells these for $41.95 for the set.
Want better pushrods? Comp Cams p/n 7154-16. These are 3/8" OD, .080" wall, 4130 alloy, "one piece" pushrods that are as strong or stronger than the 7/16" pushrods originally used on L-88/ZL-1 (and, they're lighter, too). Summit sells a set of these for $95.88. These are a direct replacement, too; no other engine changes necessary.
So, you've got lots of options.In Appreciation of John HinckleyComment
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Re: What's wrong with Jack's idea about wiping
Is there such a thing as getting a stronger but lighter push rod. Mine appear to be the one piece style. I was looking at a set on ebay that are nos GM for a 427/390. I thought I might watch them. But, a slightly lighter but stronger pushrod might be a little nicer though I would not really ever benifit from it. I am not much into pushing an engine much further than 5000 rpms for very long. I would think a lighter push rod would improve the valve train responce at higher rpms. TerryComment
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