Here's a followup on my '64-365HP(engine sat for 27 years): Six of the cylinders that are exposed had light surface rust, appear to have cleaned up pretty good just using a 3M Scotch pad and automatic trans fluid as a lubricant. Removed # 8 piston rather easy with wooden dowel and hammer yesterday only to realize that the connecting rod is seized on the wrist pin. Today I tried driving out the other upper piston with no luck. I was optimistic that I might get by with a light hone and use my existing pistons,new rings and my new Crower rods. Now I don't know. I just might have to purchase new domed pistons. Any and all suggestions/opinions greatly appreciated. Odometer has 68253 on it but back in the 60's, one could easily disconnect to keep the mileage within the 36K/36 month warranty period. So I'm guessing the engine might have around 75K on it. Thanks in advance.
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Re: Engine teardown
Jack,
In my opinion, you should not do a "ring job". The chances are you will have to redo it in a year or two. If you go ahead and do a minimum bore, have a good machine shop check the crank and turn if necessary, install new pistons, rings bearings, cam & lifters and have a good engine for many years. At least check the heads and be prepared to redo them also.
When you take the block to the machine shop deliver your instructions verbally and in writing. Place great emphasis on the importance of not decking the block. If they say it is standard procedure, find another shop. You are the customer, make them do it your way. The last block to took to a machine shop I told them it is important enough that I would sue them if they decked the block.
Verle -
Re: Engine teardown
Jack, to help ensure the pad is not touched, add to the contact a $10,000 penalty fee, to you, if the pad is touched. A little financial pain will always make a re-builder pay attention to what you really want.
HarryComment
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if you do not want the block decked
you must find a shop the does not use a block mounted boring bar because if you do not deck the block the boring bar reference point,the blocks head surface, may not be true to the crank centerline. you need a shop the uses a fixture mounted boring bar that locates the block off of the main bearing bores. JMHOComment
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Re: if you do not want the block decked
If you measure deck clearance prior to disassembly and the numbers are consisent along the length of each deck, then you can be reasonably assured that the deck is parallel to the crankshaft axis and a deck mounted boring bar will yield bores that are sufficiently perpendicular to the crankshaft axis.
Jack - can you measure the thickness of the installed head gaskets and look for any identifying marks? Did each side have one or two gaskets?
DukeComment
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if you check the the deck for being
parallel you must use the same piston/rod combination in both ends of the block.Comment
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Re: if you check the the deck for being
Crank throw radius, rod length, and piston compression height are all held to plus or minus a thou or less, so if there is no clear indication of slope when you measure deck clearance prior to teardown, then I think it's about 99 percent that the deck is reasonably parallel to the crank axis.
DukeComment
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i have seen .010 stack up between
crank,rod and piston. when i did drag race engines that had to use stock parts i had special fixtures to check crank throws length,rod big end to small end length and compression height on pistons.then i would mix and match parts to get the deck distance as close as posible even after decking the block. i have also see as much as .012 taper in the blocks from end to endComment
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Re: if you do not want the block decked
Duke, each side had ONE head gasket. I will mic them when I get home from work tomorrow morning. Seems like the biggest challenge on my first teardown ever in my life, is getting the pistons out of their respective bores. Given the difficulty of accessibility and the stubborn removal of anyone of the remaining 7, I am more than doubtful and positively reluctant that I could ever have turned the crank over by hand with a breaker bar. The #8 piston and its connecting rod that I removed rather easily, is rigid (seized up)on the wrist pin. I will continue to soak the cylinders with expectation of the removal of the remaining pistons.Comment
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Re: if you do not want the block decked
If they are sticking at the top of piston travel, have you used a cylinder ridge cutter? DaleComment
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Re: if you do not want the block decked
The one that I easily removed, appeared as though it was TDC,no ridge visible. the next one that I tried to remove but couldn't, is located at the top, same as the first, dome protuding, no ridge visible. The remaining 6 cylinders all have a slight ridge with their pistons far below the ridge.Comment
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