71 sill plate screw removal

[Mike E.]

This is all new to me--the 62's always want to fall out without any coaxing whatsoever--the 71's just don't want to come out. (62's in glass--71 in metal)I've soaked them with PB blaster and tapped on them off and on for about 6 weeks--still won't move. I'd rather not drill them out unless absolutely necessary.
What's worked for you that I'm missing?
Thanks,
Mike

[Jack H.]

Re: 71 sill plate screw removal

Something's rotten in Denmark, Rev... You should remove the screws holding the sill plates to the sill and simply lift up and back to clear the kick panel.

If you're fighting the sill plate releasing its contact with the sill, then either 'Bubba' has done something cute (RTV?) or they were installed when the paint was still wet in the door jamb.

[Mike E.]

Re: 71 sill plate screw removal

Jack--
Sorry I was unclear about my dilemma--the screws won't unscrew. They are absolutely rusted in.
Mike

[Mike E.]

Re: 71 sill plate screw removal

Forgot to mention--screwed in place on Nov. 26, 1970--never unscrewed since. Car sat in impound yard at one point with top slit (about 1977)--rained in--a bit of a challenge.

[Dick W.]

Re: 71 sill plate screw removal

Fr. Mike, I use an impact driver to loosen those screws. I usually soak them with penetrating oil for a day or so. The driver I have has a 3/8th's square so I use a #2 phillips driver. As you strike the driver with a hammer you rotate it in the direction that you need to remove the screw. The cam action of the driver will try to turn the screw MOST of the time this will remove the screw.

If you are not familiar with an impact driver go to the below link for a description

http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item.asp?P65=&tool=all&item_ID=1711&group_ID=223&store=snapon-store&dir=catalog

[Mike E.]

Re: 71 sill plate screw removal

Dickie--
Been there, done that--no effect at all, except to begin to hog out the cross-recesses in the heads of the screws. This really has me frustrated, because I dare not use heat, and don't want to drill them out, and they just plain aren't coming out!

[Dick W.]

Re: 71 sill plate screw removal

Reverend Mike, I guess the next step is to take a Dremel tool and cut out around the head of the screw, allowing you to remove the sill plate. I would then get out the trusty old "flaming blue point" wrench and heat the screw while attempting to turn it with a pair of vise grips. You can pack the surrounding areas with a heavy layer of wet towels to protect the fiber glass. Remember, patience is one of the main virtues of restoration. Maybe a few "darn's" would help you feel better

[Chuck S.]

Re: 71 sill plate screw removal

Dickie, heat is good idea...hopefully you don't twist them off before they break loose. I am natural coward using torches around fiberglass.

Another option is to skip the Dremel, and use the hogged-out cross-recess as a center to drill through the length with a bit just smaller than the thread minor diameter (Got a steady hand, Mike?). Then use a punch or pick to clean out the thread remnants. The chips and debris will fall through onto the top of the frame. I don't remember how long those screws are, but the threads in the bird cage sill are right below the fiberglass thickness...I would expect those screws are about 1/2" long.

[Phil P.]

Re: 71 sill plate screw removal

i've used chucks' drill out method on this salt water dipped 67 i'm finishing up---the center of the phillips provides an almost perfect center point for drilling---most of the time the screw will go through with the bit

[Dick W.]

Re: 71 sill plate screw removal

Dickie, heat is good idea...hopefully you don't twist them off before they break loose. I am natural coward using torches around fiberglass.

Chuck never force anything, just use bigger hammers (or "hot wrenches") I do not like to use a torch either, but heat will usually get the fastener out. At least you do have something to grip unlike if you drill it and the bit breaks, common with a bit this small.

[Chuck S.]

Re: 71 sill plate screw removal

Dickie...You need to replace those old worn-out ***** drills you been using, or quite pressing so hard.

Kidding aside, I would buy a couple of brand new, high-quality drills for a job like this...keep oiling the drill point, apply little pressure, and let the bit cut just as fast as it wants.

[Chuck S.]

Drilling Stubs Out Of Wiper Door...

Recently, I went back to my restoration only to figure out that I had left the wiper door in far worse shape that I thought...two of the four mounting holes had the remainder of the original mounting bolts (a case where you wish it weren't so original) broken off down in the holes. (Awww, dang!)

Anyway, that wiper door is aluminum, and everybody knows that drill bits naturally rather chew on aluminum than steel. Plus, with the mounting holes in the ends of a 4' piece of flat aluminum, there's no way to get it under a drill press...it's a hand drill and a steady hand job, drilling steel in soft aluminum; I wasn't very optimistic. In each case, using a drill just smaller than the threads, I started the drill turning slow to start a center, then carefully drilled them out. I ran a tap through the holes and was astounded to find I had pulled it off...no stubs, but with threads still in pretty good shape.

[Dick G.]

Re: Drilling Stubs Out Of Wiper Door...

Mike: In the event you decide to use heat, try using a soldering gun. Bigger the better. 300 watts minimum. The sill itself will work against your efforts as a heat sink. Gauge the soldering gun's ability by it's watt rating. Also, put the PB away and buy some KROIL. It's the best penetrating oil product out there. Heat up your screw HOT, then while she is still hot, squirt more KROIL or PB and watch the oil smoke and draw in the oil. Screw her out. This has worked for me on many occasions. I too, have had my share of frustrating rusted parts and engines. Good Luck Dick Gutman

[Dick W.]

Re: 71 sill plate screw removal

I have had a lot of luck using LH drill bits in removing broken bolts. Do the pentrating oil thing for a day or two if you have time. Then carefully drill the fastener using the LH bit. Quite often the stub will screw out with the bit. I think that the combination of heat and vibration from drilling, plus the reverse pressure from the bit, makes this work very well