Dip Stick Tube broken Part II

[Oliver S.]

Hello,

as I wrote Yesterday, my dip stick tube is loose. Now I've had a closer look. Here are two images:
The engine picture shows the lower dip stick tube in motor (I assume). And in this the broken part of the dip stick should be stuck. But I can't see it. The dip stick itself doesn't show any particular breakage line but there's no extension visible at the lower end also. Could it be that something has fallen in the oil pan? Do I have to remove/replace the lower dip stick in the motor, too? I'm a bit confused.

Regards
Oliver

[Steven C.]

Re: Dip Stick Tube broken Part II

Oliver,

I responded yesterday with a tip for removing the broken end of the dipstick tube from your engine.

Now you've confused me by talking about a broken dip stick, as well as the tube?

If by chance you've broken both (tube and stick), the end piece of the dipstick is most likely in the pan.

My advice, purely my opinion, is to pull the piece of dipstick tube, replace the broken dipstick tube, replace the dipstick only if broken, and collect the other piece later if the pan is ever off.

Steve

Now a member! Waiting on my packet.

[Mike E.]

Re: Dip Stick Tube broken Part II

Oliver--
If the motor is correctly configured, there is a lower tube that extends into the pan, has a lip on the top, and that lip bottoms in the block casting about an inch below the outer opening. There then is an upper dipstick tube that extends up to the area above the exhaust manifold, and the dipstick then is routed down through the upper tube, automatically through the lower tube, and into the pan area where it gauges the amount of oil you have in the pan.
From looking at what you have shown, it appears to me that the upper tube has broken off flush with the block. You can remove that by lowering (removing) the oil pan, and then driving the lower tube up and out of the block--that will push out the stub of the upper tube that remains in the block. Both the lower and upper tubes are available from GM and from aftermarket Corvette parts sources.
Good luck!
Mike

[Oliver S.]

Re: Dip Stick Tube broken Part II

Steve,

please excuse me since I meant dip stick tube. Just forgot the last word 'tube'. The dip stick is ok. I read your reply yesterday. What confused me was that I couldn't see a stub of the broken dip stick tube.

Regards
Oliver

[Steven C.]

Re: Dip Stick Tube broken Part II

It's broken off flush with the block. Your picture shows the dissimilar metals, and also what Mike was saying about the upper tube sleeved into the lower tube.

His method is best but involves removing the pan. A slide hammer, or other screw into the hole can often remove the piece without removing the pan.

Steve

[Terry M.]

Re: Dip Stick Tube broken Part II

It is there. I can see the remainder of the tube in your first photo. I once removed the remains of a small block dipstick tube using the tap method described in one of the responses to your post yesterday.

[Joe L.]

Re: Dip Stick Tube broken Part II

Oliver-----

This is a very common problem. It's caused by one of 2 things: (1) excessive bending of the diptick tube causing the tube to work harden and break, and (2) improper installation of the tube. In your case, the cause was (2); I can see the "remnants" of improper installation on what remains of the tube.

First, you must remove the remaining piece of the upper tube. You can do it as Mike mentions by removing the oil pan and tapping on the lower tube. This will drive out the broken piece very easily. Then, push the lower tube back down and you're ready to install replacement.

If you don't want to remove the pan, you can fabricate a simple tool for removing the tube remnant. Use a piece of tube about 1-1/4" long which is larger than the tube remnant OD but which will seat on the block area surrounding the tube orifice. Place a flat piece of metal at least 1/8" thick with a hole in the center on top of the tube. Finally, using a self tapping screw of such size that it will thread into the tubing remnant, place the screw through the hole in the flat metal piece (obviously, the hole in the metal piece has to be of a size large enough to let the screw pass through but small enough so that the head of the screw does not go through) and get it started threading into the tube remnant. Last. turn the screw so that it pulls the remnant out of the block.

Properly installing the new tube is the most difficult part. You cannot drive on the tube collar with a screwdriver or similar tool as someone apparently did before with your existing tube. To do so will get you right back to the problem you have now---you will damage the tube and it will break off again in the future. Instead, do as follows:

1) THOROUGHLY CLEAN the tube orifice in the block. A rifle cleaning brush will do nicely or use a small wire wheel on a Dremel tool;

2) Bevel the lower end of the new tube with a bench grinder or belt sander;

3) Place the tube in the freezer overnight;

4) apply a small amount of grease to the tube orifice in the block; a Q-Tip will do nicely;

5) Remove the tube from the freezer and immediately set it up to install in the block. Put a nut onto the tube so that the nut rests on the top of the tube collar. Align the tube with the orifice and gently tap it into the block by applying force to the top of the NUT with a drift and small hammer;

6) Tap the tube down ONLY until the collar just contacts the block surface. DO NOT CONTINUE TO POUND ON THE NUT AFTER THE COLLAR CONTACTS THE BLOCK. If you do, you will "flatten" the collar and set yourself up for breakage.

[Chuck R.]

Re: It has to be there Oliver

Picture the tube running through a flat washer by oh say about two inches. Your tube is snapped off flush at the top of that "washer" with the remainder protruding into the block cavity

I'd try to get a small flat blade screw driver between the tube flange and try to pry it up and out. If it starts out, use a second screw driver to work on either side of the flange to slowly rock it back and forth until you can ger a set of pliers on it.

Plan "B" would be to use that same screw driver and a peen hammer and try and cave it in just enough to loosen it up.

If you try the extractor route, just be sure not to wind down too much on the tube as you might just flare it tighter to the block wall.

Last resort is to drive it into the base and who knows, it might just end up rolling around near the drain plug at a later oil change. Personnally, I'm not fond of the thoughts of a loose hunk of tin trying to make it's way by the rotating assembly without lodging into something important.

Hope it pops out easy for you,

Chuck