Mystery Problem with '70 LS5 engine run

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  • Bill D.
    Expired
    • January 1, 1985
    • 4

    #1

    Mystery Problem with '70 LS5 engine run

    I am having a problem diagnosing an engine run problem with a Top Flight 1970 LS5 w/Auto Trans. This is a low mileage Corvette that has run flawlessly for 20 years since the second owner purchased it.

    When he put it into winter storage it was running fine. Then in the spring it came out of storage and runs fine when cold, strong and no unusual noises. It begins running rough when operating temperature is reached, usually after 20-30 minutes. The problem has progressed to the point that it will stall on deceleration or when idling with the trans engaged. Restart will be troublesome when attempted, usually taking several tries. By disconnecting the TCS solenoid, to allow full manifold vacuum, the engine will start slightly better and can be driven using brake and gas to keep from stalling. Once the vehicle speed builds, acceleration is possible with primaries only up to 4000+ RPM. If secondaries are opened the RPMs will max out at 3000.

    This is what has been done with little improvement:
    Change fuel filter, check plugs and plug wires, check each cyl with KV tester, remove Breakerless module and install points and condenser, reinstall Breakerless module, change rotor, change cap, change orig coil to ACD U505, change to repro 287 coil, block fuel return line from pump, replace fuel pump, blow out tank to pump line and check flow, check fuel pump pressure, check run voltage at coil when idling = 9.5 V, change carb to another same # Q-Jet from another 70 LS5, clean and rebuild orig carb and reinstall, clean out fuel tank and replace strainer, compression and leak down test, check air/fuel ratio at muffler outlets, change to temporary resistor wire jumped from alternator output.

    Some improvement noticed with following:
    Connect resistor jumper from alternator in parallel with existing circuit. Coil voltage is up to 10.5+ but engine will stall when jumper is removed.
    Remove intake - magnaflux - replace intake and new gaskets. Now runs at idle with TCS connected but stumble and stalls when attempt to move in Drive. Will move in Reverse without stalling, just stumble.

    Where do I go from here????
  • Clem Z.
    Expired
    • January 1, 2006
    • 9427

    #2
    ckeck for broken ground wire inside dist *NM*

    Comment

    • Joe L.
      Beyond Control Poster
      • February 1, 1988
      • 42936

      #3
      Re: ckeck for broken ground wire inside dist

      clem and Bill------

      Yes, that's a very good thought. I don't know if that ground wire is relevent with the Breakerless ignition system, or not, though (i.e. since Bill tried it both with the Breakerless and the breaker points) If it is required for the Breakerless, then that could very well be the problem.

      Also, even if the wire appears to be fine there are at least 2 possibilities:

      1) the wire may be broken within the insulation so that it APPEARS to be ok but actually is not, or;

      2) the wire is attached to the distributor breaker plate by a "solder" connection. If it has ever been replaced (the wire was once available from GM as a seperate part) or re-soldered, there's the possibility of a high resistance, "cold" solder joint. This sort of situation in all kinds of electrical endeavours can cause really VEXING problems.
      In Appreciation of John Hinckley

      Comment

      • Bill D.
        Expired
        • January 1, 1985
        • 4

        #4
        Re: broken ground wire - Thanks I will check again

        Thanks Clem & Joe. Although I have already been there I guess it is time to look again.

        Comment

        • Edward Boyd

          #5
          Re: ckeck for broken ground wire inside dist

          If the engine stalls when the test jumper wire is removed it seems as if you are into a run of bad coils. It is now not uncommon to receive new parts that are NG and it certainly plays havoc with traditional diagnoses which assume that a part straight from the box will be OK. The poor running which evidences itself as the engine compartment gets hot also leads me to the coil as the culprit.

          Comment

          • Joe L.
            Beyond Control Poster
            • February 1, 1988
            • 42936

            #6
            Re: broken ground wire - Thanks I will check again

            Bill-----

            As I say, check the junction of the wire to the plate. The original factory connection was somehow "spot welded" to the plate. In SERVICE, some folks try to solder this connection with mixed results.

            Unfortunately, the plate is long-since GM discontinued and, as far as I know, not available in the aftermarket.
            In Appreciation of John Hinckley

            Comment

            • Bill D.
              Expired
              • January 1, 1985
              • 4

              #7
              Re: broken ground wire - Thanks I will check again

              Joe,

              I will bring it back in from storage when feedback stops. I am hoping for more responses.

              I will check resistance readings cold and hot as well as comparing to another distributor. I will also look for a soldered connection and signs of a cold solder. Might even try a different distributor.

              Thanks for your ideas and any more you may think of.

              Comment

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