rust reformer/converter on frame...

[Jim V.]

After a fair investigation into the market of rust reformers, I have come accross Rust-Oleum's High Performance V2100 System Rust Reformer. Their tech. support tells me it is not phosphoric acid based, and can be applied over light rusted and clean metal. Apparently, it was named as "product of the year" by Plant Engineering in 2005. I'm impressed! I realize we are not maintaining power plants here, but you must admit it is a selling point. It also can be top coated with any oil based or two part paints. I am also impressed by the fact it is produced by a large corporation in a fairly large market space compared to the niche automotive resto market. Anybody ever consider or use this stuff.

I get the notion that the Eastwood and POR products are a tad pricey at $40 a quart. Rust conversion or reformation is an interesting alternative to heavy prep work (grinding...etc). This is attractive to me since I am at a body-on frame and engine compartment refresh. Here's a pic showing the degree of surface rust remaining after a extensive degreasing clean-up effort. The photo also highlights the fact that the dust shield were definately in place at time of the engine compartment black-out step (1965 anyhow).

Thanks.

[Steve Wallach]

Re: rust reformer/converter on frame...

Naval Jelly works great as a "rust converter". I don't know how it compares price wise though?

Cheers,

Steve

[Steven C.]

Re: rust reformer/converter on frame...

Steve,

Naval jelly is phosphoric acid, and requires careful removal and cleanup after use. Nonetheless, it is an excellent rust remover.

The "rust converters" in rattle cans (Krylon Rust-fix, Rust Oleum products, the old "Extend"), can typically be applied to light rust, and then topcoated...I love them, and use them extensively.

Cheaper and easier than POR-15, but since I've never used POR-15, I don't know what's involved and what the outcomes are.

Steve

[Michael H.]

www.ridrust.com

Has anyone tried a product called "RidRust" on large pieces? I bought a gallon and am quite impressed with the results I've gotten on smaller parts. Their web page shows pictures of a recirculating system that can do large items, including frame sections. Pretty amazing stuff. www.ridrust.com

[Alan Drake]

Re:A Arm Seal

Jim! Hope you saved the original A Arm Seal, aka Dust Shield. The repro's are all thin, .075" vs .100". Nothing the shops can doe about that since the only material available is the .075, however I have not taken a few 100 hours to search for a .100 material. Also note there are minor differences in the long staple sides from C2 year to year.

AND, Yes my 64 also shows the same unpainted glass under the seal. Do not believe an arguement exists on "if seals where installed before paint"

[James W.]

Re: www.ridrust.com

Yep! I first bought the 1 gallon bottle and was also impressed with what it will do. I have since bought the 5 gallon batch. You can't believe what it will do for an original pair of emergency brake cables after just a single 24 hour bath. The ones I restored using RidRust product look like brand new. It freed them up so they work perfectly now. I highly recommend it. I plan to buy another 5 gallon kit put my low mileage 1987 Buick Grand National up on my hoist, set up the small sump pump and kiddy pool arrangement under the car and clean the rust off the rear differential and other bare metal parts.

James West

[Michael H.]

Re: www.ridrust.com

I was very disappointed to hear that engine machine shops no longer offer a derusting process. I wonder how effective a 55 gal drum of Ridrust would be on engine blocks and cyl heads? Would only cost $1,000 to find out.

I did a little testing on parts that I've derusted with Ridrust and have found no negative effects as far as strength/integrity. Not the case with any of the caustic cleaners.

[James W.]

Re: www.ridrust.com

Michael,

I have taller 5 plus gallon plastic bucket with a near new batch of Ridrust in it that a SB cylunder head should easily fit in. Send my a cylinder head and I'll soak it and we'll see how well it wotks! I have access to the new hot water parts cleaning equipment here in the machine shop at work. We can clean it with that before the Ridrust bath.

James West
Omaha, NE.

[Michael H.]

Re: www.ridrust.com

Thanks James. I don't have any engines apart now though. Would be very interesting to see the results.

Bet engine shops could use a drum to derust blocks and it would last a long time as long as the block is properly degreased before the Ridrust bath.

[Travis Williamson]

[Travis Williamson]

Re: rust reformer/converter on frame...

Here is the post...

[Jim V.]

Re: rust reformer/converter on frame...

Steve, have you specifically tried the Rust-Oleum V2100 System Rust Reformer? I believe it has only been on the market a year or two.

[Jim V.]

Come-on you guys are reps...right?

Hey Michael and James....sounds like you guys are on the Ridrust payroll. I must say you have my interest. Other than the great results, what do you know about the chemistry of how this stuff works. Does it have the same issues with hydrogen embrittlement that other acids have? Does it reform ferouts oxide to form ferrous or zinc phosphate like POR15 Metal Ready and others? I did already check out the website and left a technical inquiry. I can't help but get a bit skeptical with all these DOT COMS trying to cash in on marketing hype, without any new science. Please share some more of the details ..

Thanks

[Jim V.]

Well done..

Thanks Travis. Nice job on the prep. With a frame that clean I bet you didn't even need the encapsilator. What technic did you use to get the metal so...clean, just a wire wheel on a drill?

[Michael H.]

Re: Come-on you guys are reps...right?

Jim,

I was as concerned about hydrogen embrittlement as you and everyone else but it doesn't seem to be an issue, at all. It contains no acid of any kind and doesn't even have much of an odor. They say it can be flushed down any drain and is 100% enviro safe. I always assume that everything that sounds too good to be true, probably is. However, I'm convinced otherwise. So far, I have nothing bad to report on the stuff. I have no idea how it works as well as it does, but it does. When I first toured their website, my reaction was the same as everyone elses but I've been using it for a few months now and I'm happy with it.

If anything at all is negative, it's the fact that when a small container of it is used over and over, the metal that comes out appears a bit darker than it should be. Also, the time required increases as the chemical is diluted. I suppose the chemicals loose something eventually.

It's only $25 a gal. Give it a try.