Thorough Neutralizing of Stripper

[Patricia Brown]

Hello,

Last summer I used Captain Lee's to strip the paint off my '72. It took it off down to the primer, and then I used lacquer thinner and a Scotch Brite pad to scrub off the primer. I was of the understanding that the lacquer thinner would neutralize any Captain Lee's while at the same time removing the primer.

I have since read of people doing as I did and then using water and/or soap and water at the end. Should I have also water-washed it? The car has been sitting, bare, in the garage for over 1 year since the stripping. Do I need to wash it with water, or would the lacquer thinner have done the trick?

Relatedly, I hear references to using acetone to clean fiberglass. Is there a benefit of lacquer thinner vs. acetone? (I have a couple spots of contaminated 'glass to leach the oils out).

Thank you,
Patricia Brown

[John M.]

Re: Thorough Neutralizing of Stripper

I always use hot, soapy water and a scotchbrite pad to scrub all panels after stripping. I then follow up, once dry with a lacquer thinner wash as a final cleaning prior to priming or gelcoating. Lacquer thinner is comprised mainly of Acetone and Alcohol, and just dries a little quicker than straight acetone. Either one will work well for removing all traces of most contaminates. If you washed the car down well with lacquer thinner, you should not have a problem.

Regards, John McGraw

[Terry F.]

Re: Thorough Neutralizing of Stripper

Strait acetone is aggressive to resin and can soften any repairs and tents to sink into the resin. You need to give it time to get out. I like lacquer thinner better because it is less agressive and works as good. Usually evaporated before it has time to start working on the resin.

Terry

[Patricia Brown]

Re: Thorough Neutralizing of Stripper

Thank you, John and Terry. I had no idea lacquer thinner was just acetone and alcohol. It makes sense to stick with lacquer thinner. By the way, does it matter whether the lacquer thinner is just "lacquer thinner" or whether it's "acrylic lacquer thinner"? My local hardware store carries just "lacquer thinner" at a reasonable price, but the "acrylic lacquer thinner" can only be found in the local auto body store and costs a lot more. I was once recommended acrylic thinner, so I've stuck with it, but I am curious how they differ, and whether it really matters.

[John M.]

Re: Thorough Neutralizing of Stripper

Stick with the cheap stuff for cleaning up guns and wiping down cars. The stuff sold by the paint companies for their lacquer has additives to make it much slower drying to make the lacquer flow much better, but is several times as much money. I usually buy the cheap stuff at Home Depot.

Regards, John McGraw

[Patricia Brown]

Re: Thorough Neutralizing of Stripper

Thank you, John. That's very good to know. There is quite a price difference!

Patricia

[Wayne K.]

We used to say the cheap stuff was for wiping....

and the expensive stuff was for sniffing.

[Terry F.]

Re: Thorough Neutralizing of Stripper

Cant help you there. The main thing is that after you get your car clean, cover it with something that is breathable (clean white sheet)and let it sit and vapor off. Jut my humble opinion. Best day to paint is a warm dry day. Sort of hard to find this time of year. All my humble opinion though. I just don't want to do anything twice. Terry

[Phil P.]

give jasco stripper a try next time around *NM*

[Chuck S.]

Re: Thorough Neutralizing of Stripper

"...Lacquer thinner is comprised mainly of Acetone and Alcohol, and just dries a little quicker than straight acetone..."

John, your description of lacquer thinner surprised me because I thought it was mostly MEK.

This caused me to do a little research on "lacquer thinner" and I found there is no set composition for "lacquer thinner" from one supplier to the next. In fact, not even over time with the same supplier...it varies all over the place. One supplier's was mostly toulene, another's acetone (as you said), another's primarily petroleum distillate...whatever that may be; could be anything from light to heavy fractions.

I compared a couple of old gallon cans out in the garage, and I found that the same supplier's label (Kleen-Strip from Home Depot, Lowes, etc.) listed MEK far down in the list on the older can indicating it was not a large component. On a newer can, MEK wasn't even listed. I believe MEK is a carcinagen...it's disappearance may be the government helping us. Home Depot used to sell pure MEK in gallon cans...I'll have to check to see if that's disappeared as well.

Anyway, the Kleen-Strip lacquer thinner I have bought over the years was always a clear white liquid. The last gallon I bought had a distinctive yellow color and is NOT as effective as a solvent. This may indicate a bad batch for Kleen-Strip, or an opened can that aged on the shelf...I hope it is not indicative of a product change. In any event, the next gallon I buy is going to get opened and examined before I leave the store.