Re: Take a look at this thread
While we're at it let's review the static timing procedure for the umpteenth time.
Rather than setting the engine at TDC, which is the advice you hear 99 percent of the time, set the balancer notch at the target initial timlng mark BTDC #1, and make damned sure it's #1 and not #6 by verifying compression or pulling the valve cover to watch the #1 inlet valve close if you have even the slightest doubt.
Install the dist. and rotate the housing until the points just open. If you use an ohmmeter you should be within one degree of your proper initial timing point and the distributor orientation should be as discussed in my previous post with no interference.
If this is not the case, something is screwed up - GUARANTEED!!! Pull the dist. and reinstall it a tooth ahead or back as required, and if this doesn't do it, go back and check the dimple and wire indexing on the cap along with verifying that you are at the initial timing point BTDC #1, not #6.
IIRC the oil pump drive slot should be oriented at about 10-4 o'clock and a paint mixing stick is a good "tool" if you have to reorient it to get the dist. to seat.
If you static time with an ohmmeter you should be within one degree or your target. I can get it within two or less by just visually watching when the points just begin to open, then back a hair.
One degree rotation of the dist. housing is 2 degrees timing at the crank, so the difference between 6 and 12 BTDC is just 3 degrees of housing rotation or less than 1/100 of a complete revolution.
K-19 AIR cars has specified initial timing of 4 ATDC, which would require the dist. to be rotated 5 deg. CCW relative to 6 BTDC, and it's possible that the dimple needs to be indexed "backwards" to achieve that, but unless I inspect one or see the drawings for those AIR distributors, I'm don't know for sure.
Duke
While we're at it let's review the static timing procedure for the umpteenth time.
Rather than setting the engine at TDC, which is the advice you hear 99 percent of the time, set the balancer notch at the target initial timlng mark BTDC #1, and make damned sure it's #1 and not #6 by verifying compression or pulling the valve cover to watch the #1 inlet valve close if you have even the slightest doubt.
Install the dist. and rotate the housing until the points just open. If you use an ohmmeter you should be within one degree of your proper initial timing point and the distributor orientation should be as discussed in my previous post with no interference.
If this is not the case, something is screwed up - GUARANTEED!!! Pull the dist. and reinstall it a tooth ahead or back as required, and if this doesn't do it, go back and check the dimple and wire indexing on the cap along with verifying that you are at the initial timing point BTDC #1, not #6.
IIRC the oil pump drive slot should be oriented at about 10-4 o'clock and a paint mixing stick is a good "tool" if you have to reorient it to get the dist. to seat.
If you static time with an ohmmeter you should be within one degree or your target. I can get it within two or less by just visually watching when the points just begin to open, then back a hair.
One degree rotation of the dist. housing is 2 degrees timing at the crank, so the difference between 6 and 12 BTDC is just 3 degrees of housing rotation or less than 1/100 of a complete revolution.
K-19 AIR cars has specified initial timing of 4 ATDC, which would require the dist. to be rotated 5 deg. CCW relative to 6 BTDC, and it's possible that the dimple needs to be indexed "backwards" to achieve that, but unless I inspect one or see the drawings for those AIR distributors, I'm don't know for sure.
Duke
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