extracting bolt

[Les Veach]

trying to strip 66 frame.
all things off except 2 bolts. both had been cut flush with frame.

1 - spare tire carrier front bolt. nut welded inside crossmember #4.

can get to nut slightly via adjacent hole. heated nut. no good.

drilled, drill bit broke off in bolt

2 - bolt up into bottom of cross member #3 toward end close to side rail.

also had been cut flush with frame. can not get to nut (welded inside

frame). drilled but drill bit again broke off in bolt.

suggestions ? (can't afford the $200+ for a new crossmember #4 and $350+ for
crossmember #3 !)

Thanks

Les

[Dick G.]

Re: extracting bolt

Les I had some problems like yours with my 65 also. My car was from the NJ. Buy some KROIL in an aerosol can. You can buy it through the internet if you cannot find it locally. Get or borrow a welder. What type of heat source are you using? After you get your Kroil, soak these area with the Kroil 2 days. Now with that weldnut inside the crossmember you may have a difficult time getting enough heat to the weldnut. So I would rather use a welder. Can you invert the frame so these areas are pointing upward (gravity). Easier to weld top down. Welding is similar to water. Sometimes, if you can get your welder's, wire or stick, in the opening to the bolt only, weld a little at a time attempting to bring a tit of a weld outward for you to grab with a vice grip. Some people like bringing out this tit and welding up a nut to wrench out the bolt. Everytime when you get done striking an arc spray on a little Kroil. It will smoke and draw into the threads as it cools. IMPORTANT If you get any weld onto the NUT and not the bolt, you are screwed. This takes a lot of good light and a steady aim. I like wire feed simply because of it's small diameter. Getting a good ground through these rusty connections, make it all but impossible. All is not lost, if you can't get her out, Drill and tap a new hole. Go out and buy the best drill bits you can afford. DG

[Mike M.]

Re: extracting bolt

agree with dick in that a set of high quality drill bits a must. oriental bits suck. i rarely break a bit when extracting. not so with easy-outs. break an easy out and its time for mr. acetylene/O2. mike

[Chuck R.]

Re: extracting bolt

Hi Les,

I agree with Dick and Mike. You get what you pay for with drill bits. One high qaulity bit if used properly will out last every one of those 64 set wonder deals every time hands down.

I also am a firm believer in Kroil AND PB Blaster but for plain ole nut busting ability, Kroil is by far the best I've found.

I've found that if I nailed the bolt with tons of fast heat from my cutting torch, the snapped off bits will lose their temper and sometimes desintergrate. Then it's a matter of using a next size larger bit and plowing the old bit out.

Not to insult anyones abilites and intelligence, but it should be kept in mind that the larger the bit, the slower the revs from the drill motor. Turning larger bits too fast will significantly shorten their lives and blue up the lands making them useless. Then professional sharpening services will be required IF the bit is salvageble.

Plus, ALL drill bits were designed to have a cutting agent used with them regardless of size.